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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 8:41 am 
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Koa
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I'm not happy with the files I'm using to slot the bridge holes for a snug fit for each of my strings. I have been using slotted pins as well as slotting the front edge of the bridge. What do you use, what's your process for cutting a precise slot? Thanks.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:11 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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After using various methods over the years I now use a Bosch blade on a jigsaw after the bridge is glued on. Got the idea from Mario and Sylvan Wells. It's actually quite safe and you have good control. Widen and fine tune with a file as needed.
I use this blade which can also be used by hand.

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:32 am 
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Location: Spokane, Washington
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I use jigsaw blades in different thicknesses in a handle like Terence shows, doing most of the work before the bridge is glued on.

Pat

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:43 am 
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The same bosch blade glued into a handle, then follow up with a long dental style burr in the dremel to smooth it all out.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 11:01 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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You can customize the thickness of your cut/slot by using a belt sander to grind the bosch jigsaw or other blades to your target thickness e.g. .060 or?? insert into a dowel, voila customized bridge slot cutter


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 12:11 pm 
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Koa
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I use a jigsaw, sounds risky but it really is easy to control and much faster than by hand. I had to grind the back of a blade so it would fit in a 3/16" hole. Then I fine tune with needle files.

Chuck

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 12:30 pm 
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When using a jigsaw, do you secure the jigsaw and then hold the bridge manually, or vise versa? I'm having trouble envisioning how it would work while maintining good control. It sounds good though, and I would like to understand it better as I have a jigsaw and have a couple of bridges to make right now.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:01 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I do it after the bridge is glued on. Put something around the bridge to protect the top, stick the blade in the hole and do it. It's very controllable.
You can make a test bridge and practice.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:20 pm 
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Koa
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ChuckB wrote:
I use a jigsaw, sounds risky but it really is easy to control and much faster than by hand. I had to grind the back of a blade so it would fit in a 3/16" hole. Then I fine tune with needle files.

Chuck


I am as much of a cowboy as the next man when it comes to shortcuts in the workshop, but even I baulked when I read that.

But thinking about it, why not ?

It would however be absolutely essential to use a jigsaw with no orbital action (or one in which the orbital action could be dialled out)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 7:13 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I use an Exatco keyhole saw for the initial slot and then fit and tune with various small files.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 7:36 pm 
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Koa
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Charlie T, I slot my bridges after glued to the top, as described by Terence. Hardest part is grinding the back of a blade to fit.

Chuck

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 7:44 pm 
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ChuckB wrote:
Charlie T, I slot my bridges after glued to the top, as described by Terence. Hardest part is grinding the back of a blade to fit.

Chuck


Thanks Chuck. So you're not actually using a power jigsaw...just the jigsaw blade, right?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 7:49 pm 
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Koa
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I use an actual DeWalt jig saw after the bridge is glued on. I keep wondering how long until I split a top, but it hasn't happened yet. It really works pretty well.

Mike

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 8:07 pm 
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CNC. 'nuff said.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 8:12 pm 
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Cocobolo
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First name: John "jd"
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I used to try to do this using a jigsaw blade mounted in a pin vice. Doing it this way I had a few occasions of the blade grabbing and me either poking the bridge or the top. After reading here about Mario actually using a jig saw, I decided to give that a try.

Turns out that using the blade in the jigsaw with the foot braced firmly on the top, I feel like I have much better control than when I was doing it by hand.

-jd


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 6:41 am 
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Koa
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Charlie T, I am using a power jig saw. It is surprisingly controllable. The ways to have problems are, not checking that the base of jigsaw is clear of any burrs ( will scratch the bridge ), or not waiting for the saw to come to a complete stop before removing. Just take precautions to protect the top around the bridge, and you will be surprised how easy and accurate that it is. You'll still need to dress it with needle files and file the ramp.

Edit: Use a fine blade.

Chuck

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:58 am 
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ChuckB wrote:
Charlie T, I am using a power jig saw. It is surprisingly controllable. The ways to have problems are, not checking that the base of jigsaw is clear of any burrs ( will scratch the bridge ), or not waiting for the saw to come to a complete stop before removing. Just take precautions to protect the top around the bridge, and you will be surprised how easy and accurate that it is. You'll still need to dress it with needle files and file the ramp.

Edit: Use a fine blade.

Chuck

Wow, I cannot imagine having the nerve to take a jigsaw to my freshly buffed-out, newborn of a guitar! A Halloween pumpkin, yes, my guitar, no. wow7-eyes

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:12 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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i've used needle files, a saw, as well as a dremel with a straight burr.

prefer the dremel followed by a fine cut needle file to finish.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:10 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Gosh, I'm with others that are horrified at taking a jig saw to the bridge. I may have to build up a dummy test to try it.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:20 pm 
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jfmckenna wrote:
Gosh, I'm with others that are horrified at taking a jig saw to the bridge. I may have to build up a dummy test to try it.

I guess it depends on the jig saw as well. I've got a Makita thats got a lot of torque, and it always gives a good jump when you hit the trigger. I wouldn't have any problem trying it with my 35 year old Black and Decker.

Alex

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