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Would like to find a set of plans or measurements to build a slotting jig for my first OM neck. I have a DIY shaper table , but would prefer to do the routing from above , with a slightly concave center in slot . I have baltic birch de staco clamps etc. What type of router bit?? assuming the collar bit rides against the top part of the jig?/ Looking to construct a simple jig based on the kinkead book mayes dvd or ????

If you mean with a pin router, you can make a fairly simple jig to route a variable depth slot by routing the neck on its side with a slotting bit & a curved jig base to follow the pin. Benedetto has a sketch of one in his book.

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Dave
Milton, ON

What truss rod do you plan on using? I ask because a curved slot is typically only beneficial to a single rod, gibson type where you bow the rod to aid in it's straightening. A flat (or straight) bottom is best for 90% of the rod's out there.

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thanks rod I have 3 different types of truss rods one of them from LMI . I know beans abt truss rods, and was parroting what I had read in the kinkead gtr book that shows a truss rod slot with a curve in it. Saw the same thing in alex willis book, except the curve was put in with hand tools. Can someone explain the pros and cons of flat vs curved rod ?? This is my first truss rod , have never put one in a neck before .

My shop is small which motivates me to keep things simple and small. I designed my my truss rod slotting jig as basically a small piece of plywood with some guide runners on it. It is so simple that you do not need a bunch of measurements or plans. Here it is:

This is the top view with a slot opening routed in it. It is cut longer than the the truss rod slot so that you can start the router outside the neck and enter it cleanly with the router up to speed. No need for a pattern cutting bit since the guide rails will not let you go astray. Just set the bit to the depth you want (I make multiple passes and sneak up on the correct depth.) Always orient the router in the same way (i.e. always point the chord in the same direction).



Here is the bottom of the jig. The clamps bear against the bottom of the rectangular neck. Then the neck side itself is then used to clamp the neck into a vise. The vise provides a very stable (zero movement) mounting for the neck and eliminates any need for a large bulky jig with a bunch of other pieces to hold everything off of a table.



Here's a side view:



Another top view:

Ernie the one Ed has is a good rig. I used one like it, except mine sat on a platform about 8" high because of the heel. Just some rail on a piece of wood the width of whatever router you use. Clamp the neck in (square and straight) and go for it it several passes.

I got mine from John Mayes about 5 years ago used it for several years prior. I think it is the one on his videos. I use a router extension table on my table saw and do the router or table saw way now. Like Ed, my shop space is limited to store stuff.

With the neck held by the vise (Parrot or carpenters vise or other) the heel is well off the table or floor. Again, eliminating the need for more structural stuff which makes the jig larger and bulkier to store. If you add the structure then some means to clamp the structure to a table is needed or it will flop and move around.

Only if for some reason you taper your neck before routing the slot, then it would. Router table with a fence and a stop block would be as easy as anything.

Alex

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I think the tricky bit of Ernies question was his desire for "slightly concave center" (ie not constant depth). Lots of straightforward ways to get a constant depth slot.

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Dave
Milton, ON

I also thought he said he wanted to do the slots with the router above the neck. I did it that way and it is fast and clean as a router table. Set it in, lock it down and route.

The OP said he "would prefer to do the routing from above". The jig allows the OP's goal whereas the router table is blind from below.

You leave the router stationary on your router table and move the neck. This jig does the opposite. The neck can't move and the router can't get off track and you are not doing a blind cut. You can see clearly that the center of the truss slot on the neck is lined up with the center of the jig slot. None of these are "huge" advantages or improvements over doing it on a router table. You would need a "rail" on the table as you suggest AND a fence (not hard o do). In other words, two guides on the router table are needed to achieve the same "risk free" path as the jig. Otherwise, using the router table fence only will open one up to the slim chance of an error in letting the neck move away from the fence (shouldn't happen often but not fun when it does)

Ed

Router table and fence with a single feather board would do the trick. That would be my preferance, but my routers are 3 1/2 hp Makitas, and are not that great for use with small jigs. My narrow thinking didn't allow for more user friendly routers. If you are slotting lots of necks, a dedicated jig would be great. You could also put a depth gauge on the side for bit depth.

Alex

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I have a shaper table with a freud 3.125hp router outfitted with an incra fence, but am not keen to use it I was looking for a fast, easy, and simple soloution to routing the truss rod slot.Not wedded to the curved slot , was just asking about it, because I saw it in the 2 english luthiery books I mentioned. My 1/4in router bits are old and worn, what bits are you using?. If I built a simple jig that I could mount in my parrot vise,it would need a 1/4in upper bearing template bit to cut the slot. Which brand would you prefer or recommend ?/ I have a bosch 2 hp router or B&D router that could be used for the jig. Thanks for all the replies and input. I wanted to make a small portable jig, as we are looking for a new home /shop.

I don't think that there are any 1/4" top bearing router bits available, Ernie. I would use a router template guide, such as this.http://www.busybeetools.com/products/TE ... D.html.You simply make the slot in your jig the same width as the outside diameter of which ever template guide that you choose. I use this type of bit for many different applications.http://www.busybeetools.com/products/R% ... DLNTH.html They cut a nice clean slot, but you can't hog out too much at once. Solid carbide bits break easier. I have some of the HSS Onsrud bits from Lee Valley. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 46171&ap=1 They don't stay as sharp as long as the carbide, but they don't break as easily. There are lots of other bits, brands and methods to use. I'm sure others will chime in, and give us all better ideas and techniques!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

I used to do my truss rod slots with just an edge guide on my router. Some double stick tape and a clamp to keep it stable on the bench helps too. Really not a big deal.
These days I use a router table but its not really better....just set up already

I'm with Filippo on this one. I have always done it on the table saw. Well, except for one time because I forgot to do so prior to tapering the neck. I too am curious of the advantages of routing versus a few passes on the table saw.

Robbie