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This has been kind of a test guitar..started at least a year and a half ago. Bubinga back and sides, engleman spruce, cocobola fretboard and bridge. Thats the 2nd neck , 'cause I didn't like the first one...After getting Trevor Gore's books I decided to compensate the nut and saddle..since the fretboard and headstock were already done , I carefully added a extension to the nut, then carefully measured and filed ,same with the saddle which is 1/8 wide to allow for compensation...result was great...with just preliminary setup the 3rd , 5th , and 7th frets are within a couple of cents !!!!!!!

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MK5acoustics.com

gotta kill that flash on the closeups, it washes everything that is light colored out!

Looking good!

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http://www.CostaGuitars.com
PMoMC

Protip on the glare in the pics.

Turn off the flash and use a tripod, or set the camera on something to stablize it for the longer exposure. Natural lighting is best.

Nice guitar BTW! =)

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Jim Hansen

Nice guitar Wes. How about a shot of the back?

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1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498

I will work on my photo skills and try get some better shots posted tonight,,, looks like I may have to replace my old 4 meg nikon!!

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MK5acoustics.com

No need for a new camera... just turn off the flash and use a tripod, you'll be amazed at the difference. If you can get it near natural light, too, that's a big help. Not trying to dog on your photo skills, just want to see your work well!

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

Congrats! How about a shot of the sides and back? Clinton

More Pics......I need to get better at taking pics!!!!!! better shot of the compensated nut and the saddle...its routed straight

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MK5acoustics.com

looks nice! Was the headstock inlay hard to do?

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"Preoccupation with an effect gives it power and enhances the error"
from "Your Owner's Manual" by Burt Hotchkiss.

thanks for posting. some more about automatic exposures: the camera sensors evaluate the field of view, and attempt to get an "average" exposure.
meaning, the camera wants the black parts to be somewhat visible, as well as the white parts(and everything in between).
so, if you are taking a photo of a light subject(ie a bone nut), and the background(fretboard, dim room) are darker, the camera wants to make the dark parts brighter, IF the dark parts consist of a large percentage of the framed shot. when it does this, the white bone part, which occupies a minor portion of the "scene", gets overexposed/washed out.
...knowing this, it is helpful to look at your framed shot, evaluate what proportion is "light" versus what proportion is "dark", understand how the camera wants to deal with that, and shoot accordingly. in other words, if you want to see detail on a white object(bone nut), then make sure the backdrop and lesser subjects are similar in lightness values, so the camera doesn't try to make them bright and wash out your nut , OR, zoom into the light colored nut, so it fills 50% of the shot or more, and the camera will deal with it.
it is helpful to forget all about color and try to imagine each shot in black and white, and see how each portion of your framed shot relates to a "gray scale", ie bright white....darker...darker...very dark...to jet black.
cheers