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Has anyone used the Pax fret saw? I need to get a fret saw, but is the 0.021" kerf too tight for 0.023" fret wire?
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 2884,63338 Thanks for any insights.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Have you looked at the StewMac fret saw that comes with the depth stops for about the same price as the Pax saw?
Judging from the photos of both saws, it looks like they are made by the same factory.

From another seller:
"Thomas Flinn, a manufacturer in Sheffield, produces what are probably the finest of all traditional saws made to the European design. "A cut above the rest" is the firm's motto, and with it they put on the market solid-brass-backed saws, most painstakingly manufactured. Their "Pax" range of Gent's saws, which takes its name from a trademark launched in 1776 and revived by Thomas Flinn, is here presented. These saws are not only an absolute must for anyone who wants to have a first class cut, they are a joy to behold."

I have a normal Pax gent´s saw and like it very much. Nice quality and feel, cuts clean and fast and, last but not least, looks and feels classy. Haven´t tried the guitar fret saw, but should be similar in quality.

cheers,
miguel.

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member of the guild of professional dilettantes

oh, and the price seems about right. Here in europe it sells for 22.5 EUR (~29 USD).

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member of the guild of professional dilettantes

Yes, I did, and they are likely the same, but Lee Valley is a 20 min. drive for me, and StewMac would be a $27 delivery . If I go the StewMac route, I would get the Japanese saw instead. I'm hoping that the kerf is OK at 0.021". If the saw doesn't perform well, L.V. is great on returns.
I would prefer a blade for my table saw, but I have a 1" arbor, and the blade wouldn't clear the top of my saw.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

The only gripe I have with the Pax is that it doesn't always come as sharp as it should. That's not just my own experience but obviously the experience of some others who found that it binds in the cut, especially on Ebony. You might have better luck.
I resharpened mine and it made a huge difference.
I've now resorted to buying replacement hand mitre saw blades and cutting them into Gents saw lengths. I can effectively get 3 saws from 1 blade. The kerf is too wide but I glue my frets in, so the kerf width is largely irrelevant.

Alex,
Lee Valley also sells a Japanese detail saw called a ryoba for the same money.This is a combination crosscut saw (.022" kerf) and rip saw (.028" kerf).Maybe this would work for you?

Is that the Modern or Traditional ryoba? I didn't see any specs in the description. I have several Japanese hand saws, and love using them all. Cutting on the pull stroke allows you to consentrate on your line - not on keeping the saw from bouncing out of the kerf!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

then saw her face. Now I'm a believer I couldn't leave her if I tried...

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"Preoccupation with an effect gives it power and enhances the error"
from "Your Owner's Manual" by Burt Hotchkiss.