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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 10:18 am 
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First name: Tom
Last Name: West
State: Nova Scotia
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I use mostly aliphatic resin glues and generally spread it with cheap artist brushes.Over the years I have lucked out quite well in taking care not to allow them to harden up with glue. I've lost a couple but thats all. Last week was one of the times,went to the shop and found I had not washed the glue out of the brush the day before. HARD AS A ROCK. Then I remembered seeing some one mention softing aliphatic resin with vinegar. Poured some in a cup ,put the brush in the vinegar and left it over night.The next morning the brush was soft with a small bit of gunk that washed off quite easily.Thanks to the person who mentioned that whoever you are....!!!
Tom
P.S. Anyone who tries this should be sure to give the brush a good washing before reusing. We don't want any failed joints because of vinegar left in the brush.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 11:43 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I buy lots of cheapo artist bristle brushes from lobby hobby.3 weeks ago switched from dollar store ammonia , to sam/s club vinegar the pickling kind.Works much better to clean glue off brushes and faster


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 12:21 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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If you want to be sure all the vinegar is gone, wash it with a solution of baking soda.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:42 pm 
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FYI, using plane old water would have given you the same result. What happened to you with your paintbrush happened to me more than once, and every time dipping the brush in water for a couple of hours saved the brush.

As a matter of fact, I always leave my gluing paintbrushes in a pot of water. I quickly dry them out prior to dipping them in glue.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 3:17 pm 
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Alain Moisan wrote:
FYI, using plane old water would have given you the same result.


It hasn't been my experience that cured and hardened PVA adhesive will dissolve in plain water.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 3:25 pm 
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murrmac wrote:
Alain Moisan wrote:
FYI, using plane old water would have given you the same result.


It hasn't been my experience that cured and hardened PVA adhesive will dissolve in plain water.


Just this morning I cleaned the cured and hardened glue squeezouts from the bridge glue-up.

That's what I'm using, and the specs say it's PVA.

idunno

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 6:09 pm 
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Alain Moisan wrote:
FYI, using plane old water would have given you the same result. What happened to you with your paintbrush happened to me more than once, and every time dipping the brush in water for a couple of hours saved the brush.

As a matter of fact, I always leave my gluing paintbrushes in a pot of water. I quickly dry them out prior to dipping them in glue.


+1 on using plain old water. I often forget to rinse my glue brush and/or glue roller, finding them rock hard the next day I come over to my workshop (hey, none of us are getting any younger you know!). I have always been able to get the hardened glue off by soaking the brush/roller in boiling hot water (from a kettle) for a few hours, then simply rinsing it off with running hot water.

Dave F.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 9:24 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Is there any experience with using vinegar as part of the process of parting glued joints? I have a back that I need to take off which was glued on with fish glue, and it just does not want to budge.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 10:33 pm 
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Jim,

Have you tried a steam iron , or a Hot Shot Steamer with a pallet knife? I found a steam iron works great on fish glue.

Bob


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 5:26 am 
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Jim,

I've never had much luck getting vinegar (or De-Glue Goo) to penetrate beyond the surface on glue joints. In fact, my main use for de-glue goo (which is suspended vinegar) is to clean up any glue squeeze or smears the end up on the top after it's braced. I've applied it quite liberally to the end of a finger brace and it didn't budge.

I've never tried using straight vinegar, so it might be worth giving it a try.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:37 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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bobalou95 wrote:
Jim,

Have you tried a steam iron , or a Hot Shot Steamer with a pallet knife? I found a steam iron works great on fish glue.

Bob


I have to try something with a little steam production. I've tried straight heat together with a pallet knife and get nowhere. I've gotten epoxy joints apart more easily.

Thanks.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:39 am 
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Koa
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You need to get moisture in there, not just heat. It can take a long time to remove a Back whilst minimising any splinters. Steamer will work on Fish Glue, no doubt about that. You just have to be very careful of any inlay lines that may bleed. Of course it won't be kind to most finishes but I suspect that doesn't apply in your case.
I'm fairly certain that denatured alcohol turns Titebond into jelly but it's many years since I tried it. Might just be my failing memory.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:48 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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HI Jim,
Vinegar can be used to separate glue joints and remove glue from the surfaces. Soaking strips of paper towels in vinegar and placing them against the joint will help loosen things up. I have also dribbled vinegar on the parting knife to work it into the joint, and with a little patience it will soften the bond. Vinegar reacts with Iron, so stainless knives are needed to avoid black staining that regular steel will cause.


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