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Finished my first attempt at an inlayed purfling this week using some radial cut cocobolo. I glued most of it in with LMI white glue but inlayed one section by pressing in the purf sticks and then flooded the sections with thin cyano. It was easier to make adjustments with the cyano approach but I think the white glue helped to really tighten up the contact surfaces due to the added moisture. However, the fairly quick grab of the white glue in the tight fitting channels made sliding the sections together when needed to close gaps difficult and stressful. I’m thinking an improved approach the next time around may be to thin the glue 20% or so in order to delay the set and increase the lubrication. Any opinions on using fish glue as a means to delay the glue set and keep the inlay channel slippery for a longer period?

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Doug Mills
Chicago, Illinois

Looks great Doug!

I think fish glue would tack up quicker than the LMI white glue, if not just as quick anyway. The other way of course is to use a teflon strip to make the channel with gluing up the purflings and bindings.

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I'm about to do this also and was wondering about the CA. Doesn't it stain pretty deep?

Thinning titebond with water extends the working time a fair amount and not a large amount of water is needed. I do this all the time for wood binding. For wood purfling like in the photo I do the teflon strip as mentioned above and then CA. I have not heard the term radial purfling used before, but have done this on a couple guitars with good results.

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Fred Tellier
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