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I just finished an all-mahogany parlor guitar following the Antes plans. It sounds like a toy. I assume this is part of the sound/charm for I've never built nor played one before, but this thing has NO sustain. Perhaps it's because it's ALL hog (rosewood fretboard and bridge). Is this sound part of its character? If so, how do you all overcome this and milk a little more out of yours? I built it to the specifications on the plans except for a few suggestions I found here on the OLF (i.e changing the bracing to 1/4", splaying the lower X in a bit so it runs under the bridge a little more, larger soundhole, etc.).

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hey Darren,

Sorry it's not what you'd like it to be. Could be the Hog top. I've done two. Sitka and Maple and Lutz and IRW. Did the X at 5/16 and the rest at 1/4 (accept the UTB). They are wonderful guitars. Loads of sustain and packs a punch. Mine have the same size sound hole. I think I liked the Sitka - Maple best of the two. Maybe because it was the first and only guitar I've sold. Tends to sway one's recollection of the sound and all that. If I was going to do another I would use 1/4" for the X if I was using a fairly stiff top.

Try Again!

Cheers,
Danny

I made Antes parlor, but used mahogany/spruce and it gets plenty of sound. Maybe it's the top being mahogany that hurts the sound.

Are you using lights ? if so try mediums.
L.

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Post some specifics as well as some pix.... You may need to make some adjustments...

Well built parlor guitars tend to be VERY loud.... and can stand up with the best of them...

They don't have the bass "Whomp" of a big body guitar... but they can have very good sustain and balance...

One thing is that parlor/small body guitars need to be built very lightly to end up at the same stiffness as a large body instrument.... Literally - the bracing scheme will almost look like toothpicks next to a dread....

Thanks

It's strange, being that it's only a few days old, there is already "bridge belly". Mahogany top (.090") and light bracing. I have .012's on right now. Gonna go buy some .011's and then see what happens.

What scale length, and how is it tuned?

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

24.5" Standard Tuning

I built one with a Sitka top & koa B/S. Kept the X as on the plan, but made the bridge longer to hit the X. Sounds great - nothing like a toy.

I think that will help. I think that the small top is choked by string tension...

That being said the mahogany top will take a while to play in...

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"It's a Tone Faerie thing"
"Da goal is to sharpen ur wit as well as ye Sgian Dubh"
"Sippin Loch Dhu @Black lake" ,Kirby O...

Heck, guitars that don't have everything you want out of them soundwise,
might make good guitars for recording.
Ya know, less boomy, more balanced and focused?
Don't start messin' with it until it's broke in.
My 2 cents.

I've never known size to be an issue, if its stiffness is appropriate. Bellying this soon might be an indication that it's too loose, which would tend to hamper sustain.

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

So, I put some .011's on and the bellying reduced considerably, but still not much sustain. One thing I noticed, although I put on a very thin finish, is that the varnish is still a little soft even though the last coat was put on 5 weeks ago. I can see how this could dampen the sound. Perhaps my top is too thin. Or maybe it IS the mahogany altogether. I'll make another one exactly the same with the exception of a spruce top and see how that sounds.
Thanks to everyone who replied. I really appreciate a forum where an amateur like me can get immediate professional help.

I have never increased sustain on an acoustic guitar by going to a smaller string... It's always the opposite... Heavier strings sustain more....

You still haven't posted any pictures of the guitar, bracing, or specifics like how thick was your top, dimensions of your bracing, dimensions of your bridge, etc.... This will help.

You also haven't said anything about how high your action is, what sort of nut and saddle material, or the bridge pin material....

Usually, a difference sustain for the same design comes through the selection of the wood, and then the bracing scheme.... For example - heavy, chimey/zingy back and side wood sustains quite a bit longer than a very light, plunky back and side wood.... Bracing schemes that are massively asymmetrical also seem to sustain less and sound a bit more "Thumpy"... Another one is top wood.... Heavy, dense, thumpy top wood like plywood tends to sustain less....

Thanks