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Why are Medium and Fine the "go-to" compounds? Wouldn't it be easier sand up to P-1000, then go to the buffing wheel and start with the ol' Chocolate Brown and work your way up through Butterscotch and Brownish Ivory (she spent a week in Barbados). I don't know about you but I enjoy buffing. I'd rather trade out a grade or two of sanding for a few minutes on the wheel. I mean, there are people sanding up to P4000 and then hitting that with the buffer loaded with medium compound which is supposed to be the equivalent of 800 grit. That seems like a couple of steps wasted.

I haven't given it a go, as I'm sure there must be some reason not to or we'd all be doing it....RIGHT?

Darren,
Probably more of a practical thing. You need dedicated buffing wheels for each compound and using the coarse would require a third wheel and therefore require one to change wheels.

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Formerly know as Mandodiddle.

Lately I've seen pictures of several builders/finishers buffers with dark compound on one wheel. I use medium then fine like you mentioned, but I suspect there's quite a few using coarser compounds too. I believe, but haven't confirmed that Joe White uses 4 compounds.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

I asked myself the same question a while ago so I decided to try it. Since I never really saw all that much difference in the shine from the butterscotch to the ivory I now sand through 800 and sometimes 1200 then use just the brown and the butterscotch followed by a little hand work with swirl remover and am very happy with my results. Even if I decide to start using the fine compound again switching buffs out would be worth the trouble.

I'm sure others might not like this approach but it gives me better finishes with less fuss than I was getting before.

Kent

I have been using the coarse compound then medium and then fine, it only takes a couple minutes to change wheels. You can even skip the fine as the buffing marks are no harder the remove with swirl remover by hand than with the fine compound.

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

yep

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jw ( o)===:::

Fred/Joe - what grit are you stopping at before you move to the buffer with the coarse grit?

Kent - you are talking P-Scale and not CAMI, right?

I use the coarse/medium/fine compounds too, then some hand work.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

I think this is an interesting topic, and I largely think whether you use it or not depends on your luthiery vintage. Back in the day when you purchased the buffer coarse and fine was what was supplied and all you could get, and so most luthiers of that vintage use it because that's what they are used too.

Today you get the medium and fine, which work well and are a little more forgiving than the coarse compound. What do i mean? Well if you have ever used the coarse compound you will know it has a tendency to clump up on the wheels, it does not load anywhere near as nice as the other compounds, and so takes a bit more care.

You are absolutely correct however - most manufacturers will switch to compound as soon as they can. Sanding any further than necessary is a waste of time.

I sand up to 1500 dry on the RO sander then start with the coarse compound. It removes the 1500 scratches real well.

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866