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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 12:03 am 
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Cocobolo
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Tech support at Grizzly doesn't open back up 'til Monday and I can't seem to find a definitive answer via Google, so if anyone has any tips I'd greatly appreciate it.

My G0555 was purchased new with the 6" riser block. Aftermarket Timberwolf 105", 3/4" 3 TPI blade tracked perfectly over the middle of the crown at time of installation. Proceeded to resaw some boards, no more then two hours total on the saw. Everything A-OK. Reinstalled a 1/4" blade, changed the tension, tracked perfectly and put no more than 4 hours on it. Again, everything was OK. Cut to this morning, I tried three different 105" blades and none of them would track correctly. Did the ol' straightedge against the wheels and, sure enough, they are out of alignment. How did this happen after a measly 7 hours of use? I was certain to release the tension lever after each use. Hmmmm, what have I done??????


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:01 am 
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Darren: Did you check the wheels with a straight edge to see if they were coplaner at set up time ? Wonder if the riser block has locating pins in both faces ?
Tom

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 6:52 am 
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I had a riser block on my old Delta 14 that caused the same problem. That's probably the issue, with bad locating pin holes.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 7:27 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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It could also just be that one of the wheels wasn't super duper tight - and loosened up a bit..

It's not uncommon for equipment to need a "Tighten up all the bolts" checkup after a couple hours of operation...

Why not just go ahead and re-ajust it and see how it does...

If it keeps shifting around - then you may need to get Grizzly involved..

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 7:41 am 
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It's common for the drive wheel to come loose and need tightening from time to time. :o Just the nature of the beast. :) I'm also supprized you are able to properly tension a 3/4" blade on that saw for resawing.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 9:50 am 
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Mark Groza wrote:
It's common for the drive wheel to come loose and need tightening from time to time. :o Just the nature of the beast. :) I'm also supprized you are able to properly tension a 3/4" blade on that saw for resawing.



Could be part of the problem , a 3/4" blade is really to much for that saw . I know there are people who disagree , and I dont wanna start a war here pfft laughing6-hehe But as a dealer I dont reccomend / use more than 1/2" blades on that small a saw.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:48 am 
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WudWerkr wrote:
Mark Groza wrote:
It's common for the drive wheel to come loose and need tightening from time to time. :o Just the nature of the beast. :) I'm also supprized you are able to properly tension a 3/4" blade on that saw for resawing.



Could be part of the problem , a 3/4" blade is really to much for that saw . I know there are people who disagree , and I dont wanna start a war here pfft laughing6-hehe But as a dealer I dont reccomend / use more than 1/2" blades on that small a saw.

I disagree! I had an old Delta 14" with a 3/4" blade, and a riser block,
and it work fine for resawing. pfft pfft pfft
Maybe I was just lucky? :shock:
I sold it and now farm out resawing.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 12:59 pm 
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Actually the older machines were probably capable of it . Its the newermachines that are suspect . That having been said its still alot of pressure .

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 2:56 pm 
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Thank you all for your help! Yes, it was nothing more than the drive wheel needing to be tightened. As for the 3/4" blade being too big, I am going to get a 1/2" blade today, though I never used high tension with the 3/4". Well, that's what I was told to do according to this article anyway:

http://www.ccwwa.org/NEWSITE/plans/BandsawTuneup1.pdf


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 3:56 pm 
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I do wonder but maybe a 14" bandsaw isn't meant for resawing...

I don't plan on resawing much at all (if I picked up a big block of Padouk I am sure the supplier will have a resaw capable bandsaw on site to do it for me, even for a fee) but I was thinking you might need something bigger, like a 18" or above to resaw guitar backs... I read the spec on 14" saws and they say the maximum depth is 6", more with a riser block but perhaps such saw is only meant to do about 6" of cut.

I am not sure what's involved in changing a bandsaw blade but I would sure not want to keep changing blades just because I went from cutting curves to resawing. If anything I want to keep a narrow blade on a bandsaw so I can cut curves, and do light resawing if desired...

Has anyone resawn on a 1/4" blade?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:41 pm 
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DarrenFiggs wrote:
Thank you all for your help! Yes, it was nothing more than the drive wheel needing to be tightened. As for the 3/4" blade being too big, I am going to get a 1/2" blade today, though I never used high tension with the 3/4". Well, that's what I was told to do according to this article anyway:

http://www.ccwwa.org/NEWSITE/plans/BandsawTuneup1.pdf


Glad it was simple fix . And as was mentioned common . I sell dake h presses and they still use leather seals in the pumps I constantly get people calling and telling me that their new pump is leaking , and I say tighten the seal nut . Its always the problem , the seal finaly gets saturated and seats and a slight tightening solves the issue .

Good article btw , I havent read it word for word yet , but even in the article he is refrencing a 1/2" 3TPI blade for resaw . Simple fact is " Most" Newer 14" saws just dont have the stones to run a 3/4" blade.

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The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 6:29 pm 
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Todd Stock wrote:
I had a 203, which is the older US castings. No - they will not tension a 3/4" blade without either bottoming spring or distorting the upper arm. The Jet has a heavier upper casting, but has a lighter lower casting, so same deal. If you want to use wider blades, get a welded frame saw to tension to min recommended.



Well there you have it !

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The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/groups/GatewayA ... rAssembly/


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