Official Luthiers Forum!

The topic comes up from tiime to time. The current GAL has a nice article about a method that seems simple and good. You should read the entire article for details, but it is something like this. Hold the guitar in jig similar to holding it for routing the channels (but not exactly the same--read the article). Affixed to the top of the jig and parallel to the surface of the guitar is a board of plywood cut out to the shape of the guitar, but 3/4" bigger, leaving a 3/4" gap all aroung at the level of the binding. The binding is installed then held in place with wedges that fit between the cut out and the binding.

IMHO that's WAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY to complicated.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
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Whatever works for each person is fine. One benefit claimed in the GAL article is that you can see the contact in the binding, so if there is a gap, you can drive in extra wedges. I haven't tried it. I think that some of the questions posted may be from builders who find the tape, bands, or rope not working out for them, so they are looking for an alternative.

The thing I don't like about wedges is that they do imply a good amount of force . Another is question is how can you be sure the wedge is not applying a force where it isn't needed. In order to have a good clamp force you want the force applied parallel to the face of the joint. A wedge implies an angle. This is also a case of forcing a joint and when you force a joint , expect something to go wrong. If you drive wedges to tight you can split the sides . This is a strong case for test fitting and getting a good fit before gluing.
Using wood bindings can be problematic . The top is pretty much straight forward with the waist being the weaker area of gaping. When I do use wood binding I will start at the waist with a bar clamp across the guitar and then check fit and trim to the tail center line. This allows a good clean joint.
On the back is where the most issue can occur as you are not just dealing with a angle but the radius . This causes a gyration effect to the binding and it has a tendency to open. I like to break the inner corner so I can manipulate the seating of the binding. Then I like to wet it so it is more pliable. I use a lot of tape and I am thinking as I tape one down one in. Then I use a wall paper roller and work the binding in to the channel at areas and retape. You must be very careful of the joints as they can cause a hold off condition that can make gaping worse.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it