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I know there's been a lot of discussion on planes, but I think I need a little clarification. I have a cheap #5 jack plane I got at Home Depot (Buck Brothers?) several years ago. I've flattened it on what I know to be a very flat plane of glass with sandpaper up to 2500 grit, and gotten the blade razor sharp. It works, but not all that well. I know my technique needs improving. I'm going to work on that. But I'm wondering if I need a new plane too. I'm in a position to spend a little money on one right now, but is there really a difference, so long as I've flattened the surface and sharpened the blade? At one time I was operating under the assumption that there's no significant difference at that point, but I've wrestled with this plane for years now, and it's gotten to be a real headache.

Thanks.

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David Morris

Thanks for your reply, Todd. That pretty much answers my question. I've tuned it to the point that I've had limited success with hardwoods like Walnut and Mahogany, but I've often resorted to just raising the blade and putting sandpaper under it. I've heard about old Stanley planes for years, and would love to own one, but aren't they getting hard to come by? I'm not sure I'd know the difference between a pre-war Stanley plane and one that's been rusting in somebody's backyard for ten years. Is there a good place to buy one, or at least a reliable way to identify one in an Ebay auction

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David Morris

On eBay, look for a Stanley no 5 "sweetheart." You can usually get one that has some flaws like poor japanning or a cracked tote for very little money. The sweetheart designation doesn't mean too much, but they were only made while Stanley was putting out good stuff (they are again making "sweetheart" planes, but you won't find one cheap on eBay and your just as good or better going with an old one). Right now, there is a no. 5 sweetheart that has been painted green and has a cracked tote going for $30. Only 15 mins or so left though, but there are plenty more.

Aaron

Edit: Look for a clean opening on the mouth in front of the blade. Large nicks, chips or depressions in that area are not good. Also, in those older planes be aware or how much blade life remains. Some are really short from years of sharpening, but that could give you an excuse to buy a thicker blade and cap. Todd and many others here know much, much more about planes than I, and I'm sure you will get some good advice.

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Aaron Craig

Awesome. That's what I'll do. If anyone else would like to weigh in on plane selection, I'm all ears.

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David Morris

You probably have this covered Dave but just in case I thought I would mention that the sole should be flattened with the iron and cap locked in an under the same tension at which the plane will be used. The only difference is that obviously you need to retract the cutting iron clear of the sole before you start. Other than that investing in an old Stanley is great advise.

Cheers

Kim

Another consideration is to try an aftermarket iron. Both Ron Hock and Lie-Nielsen have great plane irons.

Steve

Hi, David,
It's amazing to me how often old Stanleys turn up at estate sales and yard sales. I once picked up a 22" Stanley at a yard auction for $16. But I wouldn't necessarily give up on your current plane, either. I do agree that a replacement blade will probably help tremendously. You've patiently flattened the sole, but you didn't say whether you've also tuned up the fit of the frog to the body, the blade to the frog, and the chip breaker to the blade. (I don't know Buck Brothers planes, but I'm assuming they have these fairly standard components.) Chances are, there's also some backlash in the depth of cut adjustment mechanism.
All these things are fairly easy to remedy, and you will probably have to tune all these things on a used plane of higher quality, too. There's lots of tune up instruction on the web. It's fun to bring one back to life and put it into useful service again.
Patrick

I guess I didn't realize I'd be able to come by an old Stanley plane so easily. I'm going to buy one this week, and then learn what I can about how to make good use of it. Thanks for all your help, everyone.

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David Morris

Pretty good information here:
https://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/planes101/tuneup/tuneup.htm

good for you that you´re savaging an old stanley plane. it will turn out much cheaper than buying a good new one and restoring a plane is something that´s much easier than it seems at first. and very rewarding, too. if you´re like me, you´ll find yourself just looking at it from time to time and admiring your piece of nostalgic but working memorabilia.

good luck,
miguel.

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member of the guild of professional dilettantes

Ha! Just bought the one Todd recommended. I'm excited to get it.



Tarhead, I'll use that link. Thanks.

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David Morris

In my experience, a good, thick blade is essential. Google, "Hock"

In my experience, a good, thick blade is essential. Google, "Hock"

Woah! 38 bucks? If it's necessary, I can certainly get one, but can I not just tune up the old blade?

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David Morris

$38
Try that times 10
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=5



Tune up the old Stanley first. You won't appreciate a thicker blade on a #5 like you would on a Smoother (#4). Get everything sharp and flat and square. You'll be fine.

Ok, that makes sense to me. I think if I can just get this one tuned up correctly, I'll probably be happy for now. Then as I continue to build my tool collection I can upgrade it, especially if I find I'm using it a lot. Thanks a lot.

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David Morris

All my Stanley's ( about 10 of them) have their original blades. Could they be improved? Probably. Are thicker blades essential? I haven't noticed it.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.