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 Post subject: Hide Glue shelf life?
PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:27 pm 
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Can anyone tell me what the shelf life of dry granular hide glue is? Is there significant loss of strength if it is several years old? Also, would there be any benefit of using distilled water over tap water?

Thanks, Alex

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:42 pm 
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It will last indefinitely stored in a cool, dry place. I don't think it cares about water. Some folks add a little urine to extend open time. eek


Last edited by Mark Fogleman on Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:47 pm 
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Thanks Mark - I think I'll learn to work faster instead of using the pee method!

Alex

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:56 pm 
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Funny recipe, but for the sake of correctness, it is urea not mere pee that can be added (about 10%) to extend open time. Pee has only a small concentration.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:39 pm 
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Alex Kleon wrote:
Thanks Mark - I think I'll learn to work faster instead of using the pee method!

Alex


Good plan. Warm shop, warm workpieces, all yer Ducks in a row. I make a 1/4 of a small babyfood jar at a time and toss any leftovers.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:41 pm 
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That's one of the most wonderful things about hide glue. In granulated form, it's just the same as when it's dry and holding wood together. Expect your guitar to last 100 years? Expect the granulated hide glue to last 100 years as well :) Just don't burn it, and don't let it get eaten by mold/bacteria (as can happen when it's wet) or by rats, as I once heard that they love it even in dry form.

There was also a thread recently where someone mentioned that adding a bit of salt will extend the open time as well. I need to give it a try and see how well it works.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:35 pm 
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Alexandru Marian wrote:
Funny recipe, but for the sake of correctness, it is urea not mere pee that can be added (about 10%) to extend open time. Pee has only a small concentration.


Not something I would want to do either as it will probably smell awful. I have edited my post with a smiley to reflect my tongue in cheek remark. It is historically accurate however and was a common practice in early Cabinet Shops here. After a day or so the Urea concentration will increase in a large glue pot kept hot 12 hours/day with urine used as the diluent. Concentrated Urine was a significant commodity item prior to the development of modern Nitrogen production processes. It was (and still is in undeveloped areas) used in hide tanning .

Mark
(as a matter of fact, I do have a pot to pee in :D )


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:52 pm 
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Puah [xx(] In such case one can also use cheap bone glue instead of hide for the ultimate stench....

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 2:56 pm 
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I use Old Brown Glue for gluing my tops and backs on - it's just hide glue with a small percentage of urea mixed in. Gives plenty of open time, with only a small sacrifice in strength.

No difference in smell... :)

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 3:21 pm 
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I have been using distilled water with hide glue. For the price of gallon of distilled water, I figure it can't hurt. Of course, I am also leaving a couple of small squeeze bottles of mixed hide glue in the refer and have used it up to six months later, with no noticeable problems.

Mark

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 4:05 pm 
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In ancient Rome, urine was collected and used for washing clothes, and it would keep the colours from fading. I still have a preference for Sunlight, myself.
I think I'll use the distilled water. I always have a jug of it in my shop for grain-raising and thinning water based finishes.

Alex

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 4:22 pm 
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Alex Kleon wrote:
In ancient Rome, urine was collected and used for washing clothes, and it would keep the colours from fading. I still have a preference for Sunlight, myself.
i hope i´m not sending this fine thread down the drain, but i believe they also used urine to wash their teeth wow7-eyes . actually, i was told iberian urine was the preferred one.

sorry for silliness,
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 5:42 pm 
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Alex Kleon wrote:
In ancient Rome, urine was collected and used for washing clothes, and it would keep the colours from fading. I still have a preference for Sunlight, myself.
I think I'll use the distilled water. I always have a jug of it in my shop for grain-raising and thinning water based finishes.

Alex


Here in Australia us blokes still use it to wash stainless steel......it must be 'very' fresh though.

Cheers

Kim


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 10:37 pm 
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Mark Tripp wrote:
I use Old Brown Glue for gluing my tops and backs on - it's just hide glue with a small percentage of urea mixed in. Gives plenty of open time, with only a small sacrifice in strength.

No difference in smell... :)

-Mark


My experience with Old Brown Glue was not very good. I did a test with it, and, when dry, it is like rubber. It will bend and flex, unlike dried HHG, which breaks like glass. The next hardest drying glues are Fish Glue and LMI White. I know OBG says they only add a small amount of urea, but it's enough to alter the hardness of the glue.

As to strength, overall, any glue you pick up, pretty much, is strong enough.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 8:49 am 
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If you keep your HHG granules in a dark and dry place, they will last a little less than forever. Once made into actual glue it will still last a long time if you close your container and store in the fridge when not using. I do, and I have yet to see or smell a batch turned mouldy.
There is no need to use distilled water, unless you know your tap water is contaminated.

I mix 1:1 with Franklin liquid hide glue when I want more open time, it takes longer to cure, but dries as hard as HHG alone.

Before the invention of soap (a mix of lye and fat), it is true that in antiquity human urine was collected and used to wash fabrics, it was amply rinsed and left to dry in the sun. Nobody objected, it was organic, right? Olive oil and scrapers were used to clean bodies before bathing, public baths and toilets were numerous in ancient Roman cities.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 9:17 am 
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When I was a kid, my Mother made lye soap. There was no lack of fat as we had a restaurant and lived in the back. We used it for clothes and hand washing. I sometimes miss the old days!

Alex

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 9:25 am 
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I sometimes miss the stainless steel :oops:


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:17 am 
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hi,

where is difference between hide glue and skin glue , rabbit glue , bone glue
all use same technique to apply but...

best


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:18 pm 
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not an expert on the topic, by far, but i´d say from the top of my head:

rabbit and hide glues are all skin glues: while rabbit glue is made from - you´ve guessed - rabbit skin, hide glue, traditionally, is obtained from cow hides. pig hides are the source for the high clarity hide glue, IIRC. what makes all these animal glues work is the collagen present in the skin and its connective tissue. bone glue is obtained from the collagen present in bones. also, IIRC, hide glue comes in a variety of gram strengths, while bone glue tends to fall on hide´s lower spectrum. i´ve never used rabbit glue, but i´ve red somewhere (dick tools website, IIRC) that it´s more elastic when dry than hide. from what i remember it´s more used in ancient book restoring and painting.

maybe someone can chime in and give further info on this.

cheers,
Miguel.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 2:44 am 
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I can't be sure urine is such a good thing... It contains ammonia as well which I am not sure if it will affect the glue in a negative way. By the way, urea by itself has no discernible odor, however when urea is left in a wet environment for too long some of it may turn into ammonia.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:19 am 
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Laurent Brondel wrote:
If you keep your HHG granules in a dark and dry place, they will last a little less than forever.



Laurent, on my historic instrument restoration I actually use hide glue from the museum stores that appears to have come into the store in the late 19th century, so is certainly well over 100 years old. It's not the greatest in terms of clarity, but is the same as used on most of the instruments I'm working on, and produces joints every bit as good as any modern HHG will do. I think that in a 100years time, whoever is doing the restoration will still be using this old glue with no problem.

Colin

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:04 am 
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Kim wrote:
I sometimes miss the stainless steel :oops:



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