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I've been watching for a used jointer for awhile. I recently seen an ad with one for sale at a great price.......but the bed/fence were rusted. Wasn't sure I wanted to start sanding on the jointer bed for fear of getting things unlevel. I didn't see the jointer in person so I'm unsure if this was light surface rust or if there might be pitting.

So a couple of questions. Is there a safe method of removing light surface rust on a jointer and keep things square and flat? Can rust make a jointer unusable?

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

Hi Darryl - If there is only surface rust, you can block-sand with 220 aluminum oxide sandpaper, and then wet-sand with wet/dry paper starting at 220 and finishing with 600 or higher, using paint thinner as a lube.
If there is pitting, you can start with 100 grit on a random orbit sander, and work your way up, until the surface is fairly clear, and then wet sand. Once you are done, a few coats of Bostik Topcote will make the surfaces pretty slick.
I put about ten hours of work sanding the top and extensions of a General tablesaw, starting with a belt sander, random orbit, and then hand sanding. At the time, I wondered what I had gotten into, but it was well worth the effort. I ended up with a saw that sells for over $10,000 for $1,200 including two 14" saw blades and a 10" dado set.
What I would be more concerned about than surface rust or pitting is if the infeed and outfeed tables are flat and true, ie. no twist from end to end, that the tables move freely on the dovetail ways, and that the fence is flat as well. When the motor is running, listen for squealing that might indicate worn bearings.
I would be warry of using liquid rust removers. I had considered using them until I found out most of them would etch the metal, causing more pitting and leading to more sanding.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

If it is surface rust you can also coat with WD-40 and scrape with a razor blade. I did that on the table for the band saw I got and it worked out great.

There was also a recent thread on the OWWM.org site where citric acid was used to remove rust without damaging the cast iron. I gave that a try and it was surprisingly easy.

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95835

Good luck,

John

The majority of bargain machinery will have light surface rust which is easily handled as above. You'd need a big can of spinach and a few days to mess up a jointer bed with 220 sandpaper by hand. I use these Sandflex blocks for my rust issues:
http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/163C25FB/mac/additmdtl.mac/showItemDetail?item=SA99996&qtyA=0&phsO=N&desc=SET%20OF%20THREE%20SANDFLEX%20ABRASER%20BLOCKS&drpshp=N&alOrd=Y&iQty=.000&oQty=.000&initQty=1&assortParent=K&itemForSale=Y&styleName=&fixD=&face=.00&gftc=&stck=Y&prefS=&calledFrom=DS&ordInfo1=&ordInfo2=&ordInfo3=&ordMan1=N&ordMan2=N&ordMan3=N&persCode=&persReqd=&persLink=%20&shipRemaining=0&daysBetween=0&daysBetweenFix=0&monthsBetween=0


Before buying and putting too much time into any old 'arn, check the beds/fence for true/flatness with a long straightedge or a Masterbar set ( search Google Books for John White, Master Bar if you don't have his book on Shop Machinery). Tearing down, paying for machining and reassembly could make that "deal" not be so sweet.

+1 on the single edge razor blades. Then follow up with Scotch Brite pads or steel wool. If there's minor pitting, don't worry about it.

Go to OWWM.org, there are hundreds if not thousands of threads on jointer restoration & most of those guys love to take lots of pictures of every step along the way.

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

I've restored many a vintage bicycle parts with oxalic acid, also known as wood bleach. About 10-30 minutes soaking in a bath of this mixture and the rust just disappears.

I agree that the in/outfeed table flatness is the critical issue. I remove the surface rust with
sandpaper and steel wool, and use a rust converter on deeper pits, but I don't try to sand
or grind the surface down to tet rid of them. They don't hurt anything, tool works fine with
them still there.

_________________
Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

I agree with all these responses. Especially on the pitting issue. If the pits are minor, scattered, etc., I'd just try to get them penetrated with something to arrest the rust. I'd get the flat surfaces clean enough to slide material over them easily. I wouldn't try to make it look "as new", and I'd be careful to try to preserve the overall flatness of the tables and the face of the fence. I've got many old tools that show a bit of pitting here and there, but they can usually be made to work fine.