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I have some sheet acrylic that I would like to cut up for use a cauls, but don't know if this would be bad for the blade. Since I've just installed a nice lenox bimetal blade, I'd appreciate any advice you could offer so I don't do something that would be bad for the blade,
thanks Mike

Mike : Years ago we cut and machined Plexiglas without any problem other then being careful not to burn the material due to high speed and feed. Not sure if acrylic material is the same thing or not. My guess would be that you would not have any problem other then your blade may have too few teeth per inch for your thickness of material.This may result in rough edges on your cauls. Hopefully someone who has used these blades on this material will drop in and let you know.
Tom

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Thanks Tom, yes acrylic is generic for plexiglass. I think you are right about the tpi having too few teeth for the thickness of the material, but for what I'll be using it for, I think I can deal with the rough edge.
thanks, Mike

Im no expert, here, but I'd recommend using a bimetal blade. You'll get better results and it won't hurt the blade. I tried it with a wood cutter 10TPI 1/4" and it was worthless for wood after that. It didn't seem dull, but it made way more tearout than before cutting the Plexi.

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Waddy

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I cut acrylic on my table saw and bandsaw all the time. It doesl not dull the blade that I have noticed. The finer the blade ..the better. That will leave a cleaner edge without chipping the acrylic. You will probably get a rough heat-friction edge when cutting and requires a quick 45degree touch on a sander or file to remove.

Move slowly with a low set blade on a table saw to get the best cut. The finer the tooth choice the better.

WATCH FOR FLYING ACRYLIC CHIPS in the eye!!!!!!! NASTY! Wear your goggles. That stuff has a way of getting around glasses.

KB

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Acrylic likes to be cool when cut.

You can't really do this on a band saw, but I've even used light oil to mill at very slow speeds. Cuts awesome! Build up heat and it melts and does nasty things.

I would use a worn blade. Most plastics can be very abrasive towards even HHS. If you can set up a constant air stream from a compressor at the cutting site that might help to keep it cool. Cut at a slow of blade speed as possible.

These things are not critical, you can just turn on the machine and go at it if you like, it just helps. I would swap out blades though.

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Billy Dean Thomas
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Also - run a fan across the saw to disperse the fumes released as the plastic heats up.
It can get stinky!

As to cooling the material - ever hear of a "Cool Gun"? It runs on compressed air and dispenses a frigid blast of frosty air to cool off whatever you may be cutting. We used to use them in the tool & die shop when we cut aluminum and didn't want to use fluid coolants. Find them in machine shop supply vendors like MSC, Graingers, Travers Tool, etc.

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Thanks for all the great advice! I didn't have an old blade, but the acrylic is only .093 thick, so I used my bimetal 6tpi blade on it, and it turned out great. I went slowly and the blade never heated up noticeably (I checked when it quit moving!). Surface finish was surprisingly good, similar to frosted glass.

Good idea on the cool gun Chris - I need to get one. The physicists call it a Maxwell's demon, and they only have theories as to why it works, but it definitely sorts the air out, and blows hot out one side and cold out the other, if we are talking about the same device.
thanks again, Mike

I hate cutting acrylic. It is too brittle especially if it is old. Polycarbonate (Lexan) is much nicer.

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Find someone local who has a CO2 laser engraving machine. You can laser-cut acrylic very accurately. The laser-cut edge is smooth and clear and is great for templates etc. I believe there is a list of people with lasers who are willing to help locals on www.sawmillcreek.org - it's been a while since I was over there, so you may have to ask/look around for it.

Cheers,
Dave F.

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I just cut some acrylic with my table saw this past weekend. (Definitely wear eye protection!) The rough edges were easily smoothed and polished with 220, 320 and then 400 grit sandpaper, backed with a wooden block.

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George :-)

I always use a previously retired blade for acrylic.

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Howard Klepper
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A little late, but I found the best way to cut that type of material is with a router.
Clean and smooth.
Straight edge, or template,
1 to 1 bit.

+1 for using router to cut acrylic. Also, if I'm using expensive acrylic for straight razor scales (if it doesn't still have the protective paper adhered) I make sure to use masking tape wherever I'm going to be cutting to help reduce chips and chance of cracking. Same with drilling acrylics, use extra sharp bits, go SLOW and use tape on backside of hole with a wood support, greatly reduces chipping at exit. Not sure if any of that really applies to you guys here but it can definitely make a huge difference when cutting acrylic for straight razor scales!

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Tried cutting it with a scroll saw once and the material gets hot and as the blade passed by the acrylic re-melted back together and i was left with the piece still in place and a nice circle of melted acrylic

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A band saw cuts cooler than either a table saw or scroll saw. My usual method is to band saw a bit oversize, then trim to shape with a router, jointer, or 3" drum sander in the drill press.

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John