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 Post subject: Book-matched fretboards?
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:54 pm 
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I have never seen a book-matched fretboard. What are your thoughts about it?
- Any concern about the center seam?
- What glue would you use on a figured ebony or Brazilian book-matched fretboard?
- Any "watch-outs"?

Thanks for your input.

Ed


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 10:02 pm 
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:?:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 10:23 pm 
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Since good solid wood is still available in fretboard sizes, I can't see any advantage to gluing up a board.
Yes the center seam would bother me, as the hand can put out quite a bit of moisture while playing.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 12:07 am 
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I don't recall having seen it either, but I'd bet it's been done. (With guitars, pretty much everything has.) If you like the look (or think you might), I don't see any reason not to give it a try. Maybe even a contrasting veneer at the join to set it off. Might also be a way to get a well quartered fingerboard, as those become rarer. Quartered or rift, with a book match, you'd have more symmetrical stresses. That couldn't be a bad thing.

This seems like a perfect application for resorcinol glue. Impervious to moisture (they build ships with it), and more heat resistant than wood, your book-matched finger board could be easily removed in one piece if that was ever necessary. Resorcinol's dark, purplish brown color wouldn't work for an invisible joint in maple, but you could probably get away with it on ebony, and certainly on Brazilian rosewood. Do pay attention to the instructions regarding measuring the components, apply the glue to both surfaces, and allow the recommended open time.

And post a photo of your success.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 1:04 am 
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I remember seeing an archtop in these parts with a book matched FB and tail piece from the same board. I think it was Coco and was pretty striking. It had sapwood in it.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 1:06 am 
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Here are a couple:

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I'm not sure how the center seam works, but it sure does look cool.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 1:27 am 
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I remember seeing an electric guitar that Filippo built. It looked pretty stunning, and I'm sure if he's doing it then there aren't any major down sides to it.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 2:43 am 
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I've seen many of them. When well executed and designed, it could be really nice. But, It can be overkill too. Depends on the design.

For the structural point, I can't really answer you...

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 6:39 am 
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I don't see any problem at all. Can look cool too. Go for it. [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 6:55 am 
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I fail to see any problem. For the vast majority of it's length it is backed by a chunk of wood. There are joints on every Guitar that are much more vulnerable than the one that you are proposing, front seam being one. I wouldn't even worry about sweat and water based glue. I think you might have a seriously difficult time trying to separate a glued joint with human sweat.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 7:16 am 
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I've got a 75 year old Gibson archtop with a 2 piece rosewood fretboard. It has gone this long without any problems, so I guess it should be fine to use this type of fretboard.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 7:48 am 
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I don't see any problems with it. No different than a bound board as far as sweat goes. I plan on makeing laminated fretboards in the near future. I think i saw one from Howard that had a dovetail joint down the center. Perhaps he can relate to it's effect on tone.


Last edited by Mark Groza on Sat Apr 09, 2011 7:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 7:51 am 
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Thanks, guys. Looks like there is largely support for minimal if any problems with doing it. The one pic posted above is actually what I was thinking about doing. Namely, Brazilian rosewood book-matched peghead veneer and book-matched fretboard from the same slice out of one billet so that the patten continued all the way from the peghead to the end of the fretboard. And of course, the bridge out of the same slice too.

Ed


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 8:12 am 
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I used HHG on this one a few years back and the glue line is no real issue.

Attachment:
fullboard_in.jpg


Bad photo cause I only had a 2mp Sony back then and no idea how to use it.

Cheers

Kim


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 8:21 am 
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Filippo built an electric a while back with an awesome bookmatched ziricote FB http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10123&t=28074

Go for it :)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 8:29 am 
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Man, you guys have showed me the error of my thinking.
Those are great looking fretboards!

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 9:41 am 
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The Gibson MK-72 had a rosewood/ebony/rosewood fretboard. Not sure the EIR was bookmatched, and knowing Gibson it probably had more to do with using what otherwise would have been scrap. Looked fine with the overall aesthetic of the guitar. BTW much underrated instruments and a very elegant plantilla and peghead shape IMHO.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 2:03 pm 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
Sure works great. No reason I can think of that would have an issue. Plenty of glue line and then stuck to a fretboard. Might be the strongest joint on the guitar.

Here's my last electric with some killer Ziricote courtesy of the Mad Zootmeister Dr. BobC at RC Tonewoods. Aside from providing insane Zoot, some say he can run two turntables and scratch in stereo. I dunno about that - I'd have to see it to believe it...

Filippo

Image

Image


Looks awesome Filippo. Don't underestimate this old DJ :D

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 2:08 pm 
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amazing stuff here, guys!!

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 9:21 pm 
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Well, I don't want David to just twist in the wind out there with zero support.
I'll offer one wee caution, and that's what a truss rod might do to a bookmatched board.
I probably worry too much, but I'd probably rout out a very shallow trough under the joint...say 3/4" wide or so, and then lay in a supporting veneer to back up the joint. And glue that in with epoxy. (Kim's fave.)
So that if your truss rod bore directly against the back of the fretboard, it wouldn't be hitting that joint. As a plus, that little infill would help keep the joint together whatever the neck happened to be/do.

I DO think they look cool....

Steve

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 9:28 pm 
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Good thinkning Steve. Makes a lot of sense.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:11 am 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
Then again there is a lot of glue surface area and, in the end, I didn't bother.



Filippo, I found that statement humorous--from the guy who ran crown moulding in his shop!

Filippo Morelli wrote:
Haven't had a problem (yet!)


And may you never. It's just that the legislator Murphy scrutinizes my work and seldom misses an opportunity to penalize me somehow...

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 8:52 am 
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Awesome post!!!!! Love the look. Also beats trying to find good grained wide stock for 8-10 stringers.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 1:58 am 
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I love the fretboard, and the guitar, and the P-90s. I love your shop too. You are very lucky to have the tools to develop your own skills and style. Alot nice ideas, awesome job!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 9:47 pm 
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I got a gigantic hunk of cocobolo in the shop, and every single fingerboard that's made it on an instrument has been made from it. It's 2" thick, so I cut a chunk out, plane it, resaw it in half, join it, plane it again and do all the necessary fretboard procedures. The results are nice, but i don't like working with coco at all anymore. :(


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