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I am building an l-00 off of this plan. It says the top is arched 3/16" from side to side. It's pretty vague. Can anyone recommend radiuses for the top and the back braces?
And if the upper face brace should be a diferant radius than the x brace?

Thanks

I made mine 30' radius for the top. I used a dish and radius-ed everything to 30'.

L.

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

The Grellier plan lists the top radius at 28' and the back radius at 15'.

This is of interest to me, I am planning my first build using the same plans you are, thank you for posting your question.

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-John

MY last 2 L-00s were within Todds suggested radius.

You will love this guitar.

They are my favorite builds so far.

Kent

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EXCELLENCE IN SCULPTURE, CARVING, LUTHIER, ARCHITECTURAL MILLWORK AND DESIGN

http://www.kabart.com

Pardon my noob question, what is the sonic effect of having more or less radius on the top, and on the back?

Or suggest some required reading, I'm open to anything.

-John

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-John

Thanks for the input fellas! Always a big help I don't know how they did it before this forum.

Do you use a radius dish? If so then you would make a mold and radius the top and back of the sides and then glue them on?
I have only used the Cumpiano method of building on a work board.

Wes,

Here's a link to an L-00 I built recently. MIght be some information there you could use.

http://www.patfosterguitars.com/brwl00/index.html

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

I used the same plan. I used a 30' radius dish, and did radius the ufb to the same. I can't remember what the brace above that is called, but I did not radius that, and did not radius the heel block, but glued both flat. I used a mortise and tenon neck joint and my fret board glued to the top nice and flat with no hump, and with no significant drop at the upper frets. It was my first build.

Sean

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change isn't synonymous with improvement
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Since no one else has answered I'll point out a couple of things. The more a top or back is radiused, the stiffer it becomes. A top that's too stiff can sound tight. Some folks think you can add a radius and it allows one to use either lighter bracing or a thinner top.......so overall you have a lighter top with the same stiffness. One benefit of a radiused top or back is that it can flatten (reduce the radius) when exposed to low humidity......so there is less chance of splitting compared to a top that started out flat in normal humidity and was then moved to low humidity. I would venture a guess that most use a radius to reduce the chance of splitting when the wood moves in low humidity.

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

Thank you Darryl.

I have a lot to learn, but a little less now with your reply, I appreciate it.

-John

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-John

Pat thats a beautiful guitar! Thanks for the link! Very helpful.

Sean do you have any pics of your build?