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hello friends
can i use walnut maple and sapele for
neck
fretboard
headplate
bridge blanks
bindings.

is it necessary to be quarter sawn
it is well seasoned.
waiting for ur reply

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I have seen Maple/Sapele necks before, never made one, but I have made necks out of all sorts of different wood species, even those that vary dramaticly in density. The trick I use is to let the wood settle a while between operations so that you dont have any weird bulges or bows associated with two wood species expanding and contracting at different rates. I rough out the neck at the same time I cut the fretboard out, so that way in a few days the wood has acclimated to my shop in as close to final size as possible. Im sure everyone has had the misfurtune of cutting small piece from a larger billet that was suposedly acclimated and then had it change shape. Getting as close to final shape and letting the wood move for a few days is the way I ensure my wood doesnt move after its glued, and make a good and long lasting neck. The strategy works for other parts of the guitar as well. I have had great luck with many interesting species of wood being used together, and I think that's the essence of craft building.

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Thanks for ur replies.
can i use it for acoustic as well as clasical necks

For classical necks the choice of wood has more to do with the weight and balance than with steel string guitars since classical guitars are held with the palyer seated as opposed to standing with a neck strap.

Because classical guitars are built much lighter than a comparable steel string, given the much lower string tension, It is customary to use as light and stable a wood for the neck as possible. For Spanish construction classicals this means Spanish Cedar as the norm whereas you will see German and other builders of classicals use mahogany. Walnut is a good alternative as it is relatively light and stable.

As far as quartersawn is concerned because stability is first, quartersawn is better. In the case of Spanish Cedar it is very stable and almost any grain orientation will be relatively stable. Mahogany is also very stable. If the walnut is well seasoned and seems quite stable you can get away for wood that is not quartersawn but note that quartersawn wood is almost much better at handling string tension as well. If I am building a flamenco which typically has high tension strings, then I always use quartersawn and will also often use thin carbon graphite bars to further strengthen the neck.

I do not personally use maple or sapele for classicals but have used walnut, maple and sapele for steel strings with no issues.

Thanks shawn for ur valuable advice.
i will post the pics if i build any of these necks

american sycamore or button wood quartersawn ,dried, and stable is an acceptable substitute for classical gtr necks . Cherry is slightly harder and more difficult to carve, but makes a beautiful neck for steel strings an electrics.

I was wondering about cherry for necks. Thanks.

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