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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 2:36 am 
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Cocobolo
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
I'm relatively new to machine buffing having only recently set myself up with a Shop-Fox buffing assembly and three grades of Menzerna buffing compound. Buffing by hand was a pain so the trouble and expense involved in eliminating what was an onerous task have been well worth it.

My initial results have been encouraging, but I haven't been game yet to machine buff the edges of the fretboard extension, the heel cap or the various nooks, crannies and edges on the headstock. Should I continue to buff out these areas by hand, or is it safe to machine buff with due caution? Are there any techniques or tricks of the trade you can pass on that will help in this regard?

Thanks all.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:00 am 
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Koa
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If the neck is not attached those areas are easy enough to buff, just make sure not to catch an edge, and use less pressure since the area is smaller. If the neck is attached, these areas are not as easy to buff and may need to do some hand touch up buffing. Robbie O'Brien made a nice tutorial on buffing, look on LMI's website.

Chuck

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:07 am 
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You have to develop a technique so that you do not present any angle to the spinning wheel. In other words, when buffing a surface, the edges should always be down, and not up (I assume you set up your machine correctly and the wheels are spinning down). You can buff anything, even the smallest objects, if you follow that rule. Do not buff corners.
For example, to buff fretboard edges you must present the neck horizontally, fretboard facing the floor.
When buffing a top, you must pay attention on how you present the soundhole to the wheel: edges down, always. If you search on youtube I think there are a couple of videos of Jean Larrivee (and some employees) buffing bodies and necks, you can imitate Jean's technique.

Also, only use one compound per wheel and do not mix them up. 2 compounds seem more than enough. For oil varnish I wet sand up to 1200, use Menzerna olive, then ivory bars, on the 2 separate wheels of the Fox.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:56 am 
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Cocobolo
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Thanks Chuck, Laurent and Filippo.

I should have been clearer: I finish my necks separately, and it's really only those small areas I mentioned that give me cause for concern. So far, I've done OK with the bodies I've buffed - no nasty accidents (yet!).

I'll take it gently and be sure to observe the points you've all raised.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:31 am 
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Koa
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First name: Nelson
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Pete, adding to the good advice above:
Be aware of, and remove if possible, anything in the immediate area that you think there is even a remote change of bumping with the instrument when buffing.
Apply padding of some sort to anything in the area that is not movable.
Murphy's law is alive and well when it comes to buffing. Even overhead clearance needs to be considered.
Nelson


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 12:33 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Laurent Brondel wrote:
For example, to buff fretboard edges you must present the neck horizontally, fretboard facing the floor.


For the fretboard extension, however, I suggest buffing with the neck parallel to the wheel, end of the board to the floor. Since it is so narrow, there will be an edge up to catch the wheel in a horizontal presentation.

Heel caps are difficult.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 12:57 pm 
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First name: Chris
Last Name: Ensor
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State: Missouri
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What types and sizes of wheels do you guys use?

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