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I'm about to purchase nut files. I'm considering the Grobet nut files (availiable from Martin, maybe elsewhere, not sure) and I like the LMI FISET which comes with 8 file sizes. The Grobets are $20 each so $120 for a set of 6 and the LMI set is roughly $100 for a set of 8 files. Is the quality of the LMI set as good as the Grobet files? Is there a cheaper source for the Grobet files?

What clamps and/or clamping method do you recommend for gluing the bridge in place? What are your thoughts on comparing standard bridge clamps to the Fox Bridge clamp? Any other suggestion?

Thanks!

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

Darryl,

IMHO, by far the best clamping method for bridges is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FTG5p2dsBA

Available at LMII.

Steve

While I like the idea of vacuum clamping, I'll likely not invest in equipment to do so right now (maybe later). I didn't mention this but this is a 14 fret 000 style guitar. The bridge I'll likely use is a pyramid bridge but I will also use belly bridges in the future.

I like the Fox bridge clamp shown on LMI's website but it appears you would need to locate scrap between the bridge wings and the screws to keep them from scarring the bridge. StewMacs Ibex caul appears better in this regard but you also need a standard bridge clamp for the middle of the caul. Likely positioning the clamp would be faster than starting and threading 2 wing nuts. Maybe the 2 bolts provide more even clamping pressure than a one standard bridge clamp.

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

Darryl,

If you use pins to secure the bridge once located, couldn't you use a go-bar deck? The pins should help keep the bridge from sliding around... Assuming you have a go-bar deck, of course!

I'm curious about this as well; I'm still gearing up/weighing options.

All the best,

Josh

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Finally escaped The Peoples' Republik of Massachusetts; I can smell the freedom in the air!

Using go-bar to glue a bridge on is a bad idea. You don't want to distort the top in any way when clamping the bridge, and I just can't see how you can do that with go-bars.

I made my own clamping caul like the one Stew-Mac sells



But it's made from 1" maple. I have holes drilled where the register pins stick out.

I bought a bessey clamp for $11.00 very similar to this one. It has ample throat room for clamping bridges.



I make an inside clamping caul when I glue the bridge patch on. I wrap masking tape around (sticky side out) and stick it inside the guitar on the bridge plate when attaching the bridge.

This is about as inexpensive as it gets and it's very effective.

Here are some pictures of my set up.

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The system I use is even simpler and doesn't require a clamp. I have a rectangular caul with holes drilled at the e string positions. I run 3/16" bolts through the holes and use wing nuts to secure it. Then use two tapered shims (fancy word for clothes pins with the spring removed) to wedge the wings down to the top.
All parts are covered with cork to protect the bridge and top from marring during glue up.
No sliding. No glue slip. Fully customizable for diferent string spacing. Cheap as dirt as it's built from scraps from around the shop.

Good luck,

Dave

It seems to me that (at least for a classical bridge) a single center clamp with wing screws could possibly distort the dome of the soundboard because there is no direct support underneath at the wings, i.e. to prevent the inside caul from flexing. In this case I think that three independent soundhole clamps paired with an inside caul that matches the dome are better. Maybe this isn’t too critical for a SS (?).



A short dowel holds the inside caul in place until the clamps are set. Shallow holes in the caul help facilitate positioning the clamps during glue up.



For the top of the bridge wings I molded cauls out of modeler’s baking clay backed by hardwood.



Joe

I clamped my bridge with Ken Cierp's clamp (Kenneth Michael Guitars) which is essentially the same as the Fox clamps from LMI. It worked great.

I bought some of the individual "Gauged Nut Slotting Files" from StewMac. When I looked at sets, I couldn't find one that had all the sizes I needed or one that didn't have sizes I'd never use. The StewMac files work great but I don't have anything to compare them to.

My $0.02

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

That sounds like a plan.

I don't quite get the "tapered shim" thing, however.

Don't you ensure that the underside of the bridge is a perfect mate to the top before you glue it ?

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

Same as Woodys method.
I tape a piece of 1/2" ply, 5/8"x5/8" to the clamp underneath,
to clear the braces.

Yes the bridge does need to be mated to the top. That is done by taping some 100 grit face up to the top of the guitar and rubbing the bridge around its final resting spot until it matches the top perfectly.

The shims are just wedges between the caul and the wings to them down with a little clamping pressure.

I'd love to share some pictures but I'm in between builds, and completely dismantled my workshop to put in a spray booth. Taped and mudded the sheetrock tonight.

I should be functional again a few weeks.

If you're interested and have more questions, I'm happy to help

dl

Thanks for all the bridge clamping suggestions everyone! Very helpful.

Anyone have a comment on the nut files? Leaning toward the LMI set due to pricing......but I've heard good things about the Grobet files.

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

Hi Darryl,

For fret files, this might be worth a look - set of 8 for $69 - work well for me....
Warmoth Fret Files

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Rod,

What do you mean? All that downward pressure in a small area couldn't possibly distort the top.
I realized why that was a bad idea shortly after posting. I guess I could go edit my post, but I will let my stupidity stand.

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Finally escaped The Peoples' Republik of Massachusetts; I can smell the freedom in the air!

Yes, I get it totally now. Presumably you also have a matching caul underneath to reinforce the bridge plate ? Or is that even necessary ? Obviously you would have to have at least a washer of some description.

I love the "Occam's Razor" approach to problems ...