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I building a Dread...based on the Stew mac plan. I want to use medium strings on this guitar. I'm assuming that the braceing size on the plan is for medium strings.....I was going to go with 1/4 in wide with 3/4 height at the X....what are the Dread builders experience and input here? I know there are other things to take into account like top thickness...ect

Thanks,
Jeff

You don't need to go 3/4 in high on the 1/4 in braces . That is what is used on the D 35 . That plan will make a decent guitar.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Thanks Bluecreek and Todd for your responses to my question....even though they contradict one another. With no more answers than I have got from other viewers...I think I will go with 1/4 x around 5/8 tall X brace.

Sometimes I wonder If I post dumbass questions here? I never get much input on the questions I post?....Just something I'm curious about...

Thanks,
Jeff

Nah, I don't think it's a dumb question, but Todd pretty much got it in one...If you seek further info, I would search the archives, there's probably a lot of info on that topic.
Cheers

Jeff : You should be OK with 1/4" by 5/8" as a starting point for X bracing on a dread. That is what I use. The rest of the formula depends on the top,thickness,stiffness and how you apply and work the bracing.Have seen the Stew Mac dread plan but don't recall 3/4" tall braces. Braces that high can be used but the guitar will suffer in my opinion.Good luck and take care.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

Dude,
All I was doing by my original post was trying to get some input and answers! Just didn't happen though!...Lesson learned here on this one!

I haven't built a Dread before. You here folks say that "this plan" and "that plan" are overbraced! All I was doing was trying to get some opinions from those that build that kind of guitar!

Guess I should not ask question here...just read all the post!...lol

Todd bailed me out . When it comes to bracing , there are so many configurations out there it can just add to the confusion . The MacRostie plan is as good as I have seen out there . As Todd pointed out the braces used on the D 35 My reference was that there are 1/4 inch. The height of the brace is as Todd noted .
My best advice is to start somewhere . Build it close to print and keep a log on what you build so you can gain the knowledge and cause effect relationship of the braces and woods . Even with that it can still be a hit and miss. There is a mystery to instruments. Always that one hidden feature we may miss .
Also I cannot stress this enough , Joint Integrity . Clean and precise joints will help make the best guitars regardless of glue used . There are many opinions but the variables on glue and glue joints will often confuse beginners . Todd uses fish glue and I never have . Maybe Todd may have some scientific study of the stuff.
I use Penn State University study on wood glues and also information from the US society of engineers . In most studies HHG rates about 3 or 4th depending on the study , however this is in shear . HHG glues do dry harder and are more resistant to creep . I have heard beautiful instruments made with all the glues so use what you think will best fit your needs and ability .
Of all the instruments I have seen that had a creep issue ( and it was very few in 11 years ) all were related to having left a guitar in a hot car . Making good matching joints is the most important part of guitar construction . Lastly When you compare plans to production guitars I have not seen a produced plan that was 100% accurate to a martin as Martin guitars changed a bit through the years.
I use patterns from the pre war era ( 1937 ) and the bracing is a little different from modern martins . The bridge plate is smaller and is tucked into the braces The neck block is heavier missing popsickle brace to name a few differences .
So have fun start simple , and watch the techniques . We are all here to help .

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I agree that the joint itself is more important that the glue . I didn't use the fish glue but my adhesive arsenal is HHG tite bond elmers white CA thin and Med . I stopped using epoxy and Gorilla glue should be used for gorillas not guitars . I also use Duco cement for the wood to plastic .

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Jeff: I don't know what I said to make you so upset. I apoligize for trying to answer. Take care.
Dude

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

While we're on the topic of the Stewmac plan, it has the tone bars & finger braces tucked under the X-braces.

It's more work so is there any benefit?

Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

Tom - I read through this thread several times last night trying to figure that out too.

Charlie: Everything is cool. Jeff and I are OK.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

Glad to hear it Tom.

Hi folks,
Tom and I worked it out....I PM'ed him and told him the whole situation! Thanks again Tom!
And thank to all the others that posted a comment!

Jeff

I am with Todd on the Tucked braces but for 1 point . On the true 1937 bracing the bridge plate is much smaller than that pictured on the plan. The tuck isn't that deep about a 1/16" or so. I agree they are a pain to remove but the new tools out there are designed to repair a plate better than the dust and glue .

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it