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Sometimes this is a great sander, with decent power, precision sanding, etc. Other times, the paper (even though apparently tight on the drum) shifts a very little bit, bunches just enough to create a ridge, that cuts into the wood, builds up a quick line of carbon, and sands a deep black line in the wood faster than you can say "NOOOOOOOO" !

I'm thinking it's the adjustment of the precut paper on the drum - and making sure it's tight enough, which I "think" I'm already doing..... what am I missing??

Thanks.

Corky,I have that sander, but have not had that problem. Have you tried when installing the sandpaper to leave a little gap between adjoining wraps? I do that, and like you say, try to wind it tightly.
Mike

What Mike said, and make sure you wrap the paper as tight as you can. It took me a little bit to get used changing the paper on the 10/20, but now I can do it in a minute.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

Yup, leave a small gap. Usually after I have it installed, I take tension off the clip and give the end of the paper one more tug.

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

I bought big rolls of Performax paper when I got my 10-20, I haven't had the problem you describe.
I do as the others describe- start the outside end of the roll, making sure the paper lies flat on the
drum through the first couple of wraps. Sometimes I have to go back and reclip the end of the roll
to get the right angle. Then I wrap leaving a small 1/32"-1/16" gap between wraps. At the inside end,
make sure you get the narrow end down as far as possible before letting go of the spring- the spring
should grab the paper end and keep tension on the paper.

If I make the cuts too deep, I've had burning problems. These sanders are not really made for finish
sanding. I rarely go finer than 80 & 120 grits now, to bring plates down to a target thickness a little
thicker than I want at the end. The finer grits are too easy to overheat and burn. I use a ROS or scraper
for final thicknessing.

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Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

Thanks, all. I'll give it another shot.


Regards,

Another thing to consider is to make sure the inboard clip tension mechanism should be free moving. If it's not easily adjusted forward when attaching the paper and springs back without sticking to tension the paper it needs a shot of WD40. My 16" Ryobi drum sander had this problem when I got it and works great now. I also put a piece of duct tape on the back of the narrow section of sandpaper to reinforce it and prevent it from tearing.

Add one more to the 1/16 - 1/8" gap on the drum...seems counterintuitive, but I learned that from the guy I bought my old Grizzly 24" sander from years back... And, as also stated, getting in a hurry is the best way to burn wood and ruin a good strip of paper...

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http://www.presnallguitars.com