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 Post subject: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:21 pm 
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I am modifying Tony Karol's design of the rosette cutter. I love the original design, but wanted it to plunge. What else, if anything, would you do to this new design?
Attachment:
rosette cutter.jpg


I should mention that the plunge posts between the upper and lower bases will have springs included. I just can't draw those on sketchup.


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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:23 pm 
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dial indicator or scale of some sort


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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:35 pm 
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Since it's basically a copy of Bishop Cochran's, you might as well add a depth stop as he has. You can see his on the Allied Lutherie site -- the depth stop is just a 3/16" steel dowel running through a hole in the upper plate (with a knurled locking screw) down to the lower plate. With a plunge set up, it's pretty important. You'll also need a lock or two on the depth adjustment. Things vibrate.


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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:48 pm 
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Rick Davis wrote:
Since it's basically a copy of Bishop Cochran's, you might as well add a depth stop as he has. You can see his on the Allied Lutherie site -- the depth stop is just a 3/16" steel dowel running through a hole in the upper plate (with a knurled locking screw) down to the lower plate. With a plunge set up, it's pretty important. You'll also need a lock or two on the depth adjustment. Things vibrate.


I have one of Bishop's router bases along with a prototype binding cutter. They are both very precise, wonderful tools.

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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 6:31 am 
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nice gadget .

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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 8:19 am 
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I think it should definitely have a WI FI port.


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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:26 am 
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LED lights like MicroFence has on their plunge base.


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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:59 am 
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imo
-replace the 4 guide pins with 2 larger ones mounted on the centerline. 4 are redundant and will create more drag.
-use linear bearings or bronze bushings with hardened pins.
-make a depth stop such as a 1/4"-20 screw (1 rev =.05)
-use thumb screw(s) to lock the depth in at the pins.
-use lexan for clarity
-use a bearing or bronze bushing on the pivot pin.
-radius or chamfer all edges and make sure the bottom is smooth or you'll scuff up the top plate of the guitar.

other then my .02, it looks good. show us some pix when you're finished [:Y:]


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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 11:21 am 
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Thanks for all the great replys. I am considering the depth stop and am looking at lowering the plunge posts down to 3 rather than 4. I don't want to do 2 simply as a precaution against rocking. I am a little apprehensive about doing any sort of scale on it simply because If I change what size of bit I am using, it will no longer be accurate.

And heck, maybe I will even add LEDs and 4G wifi!

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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 12:02 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I think you can take away the 4 but to maintain a good square base you will need 3 posts . That helps to control chatter .

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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 7:13 am 
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Here are the newest changes. It now has three posts and a depth stop!
Attachment:
rosette cutter v2.jpg


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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 7:30 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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there is one thing that you will need to do. You need to put stops on each leg. The vibration from the cutter will allow things to move and this can be counter productive when you are in the middle of a rout and things start to go off line . A single stop leg will not do it . Take that out and use wing nuts to make the unit stable .

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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:16 am 
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I think it will depend on what he makes it out of John .. mine is all UHMW plastic, and I only have one stop one my new one .. and its at the end piece which locks the threaded adjuster, not the one with the pivot pin - and the jig doesnt move at all. The threaded adjuster wont move unless you turn it, no matter what. UHMW has a natural compression remaining when you drill or tap it - use a 1/4 inch drilll for the 1/4 inch rod and see how tough it is to get the darn rod into the hole .. aluminum or lexan wont do that ....

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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 10:56 am 
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I am liking the idea of using linear bearings for the plunge posts. Anyone know where I can find these for a good price. I found one local supplier, but they wanted $45 per bearing. I'm not willing to pay that.

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 Post subject: Re: circle cutter design
PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 10:58 am 
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Oh, and Tony, you should post pics of your new one. That sounds awesome!

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