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Anyone here using the Jim Olson (and others) way of ramping the upper bout to get neck angle? I'm thinking of experimenting with this after years of using a 25' radius dish...any explanations would be greatly appreciated, but remember, I'm a product of the Alabama Public Education System, so keep it simple!

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Hesh has a tut in the tut forum..,

The key with any system is to draw it out full scale so you understand the relationships. Start with a line to represent the strings with a mark at the saddle, nut, and neck/body joint. Then draw the bridge with your preferred height off the top (typically close to 1/2"). Then go the neck/body juncture and measure down from the strings the height of your action. Do the same at the nut. That gives you the a line representing the top of frets. Then draw a parallel line below that to represent the bottom of the fingerboard. That establishes the plane of the top from the neck/body joint to the soundhole. Once you have that, you can draw the body in to fit using whatever top radius (or not) that you want.

Also keep in mind that you want a bit of fall-away and that things move a bit when you string it to tension, the effect being that the bridge rises a bit in relation to the fingerboard.

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Hey Larry, I ramp my upper bout, same as Jim Olson and Charlie Hoffman do.

I did a tutorial of sorts in 2006 here. Everything you want to know about it is on that page

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Hi guys,

Thanks for the quick replies...

Kent...I re-read my post and I wasn't too clear...what I was after wasn't the geometry, more the "how to", ie..router/tapered guides and the like...

Rod...I'll give it a look...it's scary considering changing my method after using the dish for so long, but I really want to dial in the consistency and repeatablilty and this may be the way to go...I figure if Bob Taylor can do it, I should try...

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I've been using a sanding board jig. Works well for me.

http://kennedyguitars.com/_Kennedy_Guit ... t_Jig.html

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I use a flat sanding board as per Hesh's tutorial. Works very well.

Chris.

Terence's jig goes the same thing, slopes the rims.

Hesh's method only levels the top.

Different process, different design. With Hesh's one can still radius the braces and then just sand the top flat under the fretboard extension. Jim's method is all about making the top flat (all braces are flat, not radiused) and the need to set the neck properly.

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson