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Is it necessary to bevel the top edges of the fret slots?

Should I use a bead of glue on the bottom of the tang when installing the frets?

Should I begin hammering in the center and work out each way to the edges or start at one edge and go across to the other?

Is it necessary to clamp the frets after hammering if glue is used?

The reason for asking is that after reading several books and various articles I have conflicting advice.

Thanks for any clarification on the above.

Joe

It's not absolutely necessary to bevel the slot but it is good practice. Some repair person down the line may thank you as well.
If the slot is of the correct width there really is no need to glue. Having said that I have recently started to cut a slightly wider slot and apply HHG.
I start at one edge of the fret and work across. I don't find it a problem although many instructions tell you to start in the middle.
No need to clamp. You should also use a fret rocker as you progress in the fretting. I also use the thinnest feeler gauge to check for frets that aren't quite seated fully. If it 'grabs' a little it indicates that the fret isn't seated fully.

Not a pro here, so grain of salt...

I always bevel. I haven't had to pull any yet, but it would really irritate me if they tore out the fret board because I skipped a 5 minute step.

Glue - I usually use glue. I'm not gluing them down, but it seems to lubricate the tang so they seat a bit easier.

No idea on what you "should" do for hammering pattern, but I find it easier to start it on one end and work across.

Mike

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Mike Lindstrom

With 19 or so frets to hammer in you can try a lot of different ways. I bevel the slots. I started gluing after watching Dan Earliwine's fretting video but I did not glue on eight or nine builds and have had no problems. You might think about either making the fret slots wider where the fretboard is on the body or filing the barbs on the tang a little for those frets. This will reduce hammering stresses. Glue becomes necessary if you do either. I like to "set" the fret with a gentle tap on one end and then go to the other end and work my way back with the hammer. If you bevel the fret slots then it will be easier to refret if you don't like something. Once I got done with a fret job and for some reason I cannot remember I needed to pull the frets and re-do. I had no problems with chip out when pulling the frets because I had beveled. I was lucky enough to take a class with a repair guy who does tons of re-frets. If you can do something like that it is well worth the time and money.

Have fun!

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http://www.booneguitars.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Stephen-Boone-guitar-builder/488208541257210

The most important thing I think is to match the tang size with the appropriate slot size.
For instance, I use .0195" frets for a .023" slot which prevents compressing the board and back bowing the neck. I also fret before the neck is carved to have it as rigid as possible and to prevent unwanted deflection.

Initially I was concerned about supporting the neck under the fretting hammer more easily by leaving it square. I surmised that the extra stiffness helped to stabilze neck as it was beng fretted. I true up the fretboard after I glue it on the body/neck and the last thing I want is to back bow it with too much fret compression by fretting it after it's been carved. I actually want a little relief though just the influence of string tension. I don't use any additional reinforcement.
I also file the frets and integrate the shape of the fretboard edge into the overal neck shape and profile.
There are lots of ways to approach this, but this is what I've done for some time now and I've gotten pretty consistant results.

Well, when I used to knock in frets,

I used to, ummm,
oh yeah,
cut em off long from the spool,
tap in the ends,
then keep tapping in 'til seated.
I read somewhere that's how to do it,
so I did it that way.
I did use ca glue once, and regreted it.
None have come loose.
Use the right size saw,
and it will be fine.

I'm close to what David said. FB is glued on a thick square neck. I made 10 guitars like this with fish glue and the only backbow I got a couple times was about the thickness of paper. I wait about 1 week to make sure all water is out then plane the FB to the desired geometry and fret. Prior to assembly I make the FB 0.5mm thicker than the desired final thickness, with the slots 2mm deep. This is about enough planing room to fix a backbow and any other possible funny business past the 12th. I found that pretty much every guitar needs a different sort of tweaking in that area. If you overplane it's not that difficult to cut the slots a little deeper.
Not sure someone else mentioned but I find it useful to have a bit of a fret wire piece with the barbs filed off. I use this to check if the slot is deep enough! As you can see from above I don't like a lot of space under the frets.
I usually bevel the slot too but a couple times I forgot and nothing bad happened. Wire is .20 for a 23 saw kerf and for the 12-19 I drag some medium grit paper in the slots a few times to help them get in easier as i don't enjoy hammering that part too hard.
I use a hardwood piece about 1x1 and 2-3 inches long between fret and hammer. I seat the fret in the slot press it down with the wood towards one of the ends and hammer it a bit, then move towards the center and return at the ends.
I could punch the guy who invented coiled wire.
I find it useful (if not really structurally, at least for my nerves) to use my forearm and elbow to dampen vibrations when hammering. At the same time as the hand holds the wood block, the forearm presses the 12-19 extension and the elbow presses the bridge.
When I am done I wick several drops of CA under each end. Wait 20 minutes and nip the ends.
Btw I don't fret on a table but in my lap. The knee is a great support for the neck.

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Build log

I should mention that before I glue my board I pre-taper it on my jet sander (I crank the down adjuster handle at a rate to match the base belt travel) from about 6-7mm at the nut to about 4.5mm at the 19th. I taper the lower side of the board in order to leave the fret slots at full depth. Depending on how flat it is after drying (I use Titebond) it's a simple matter to plane and sand true.
I also have a steel bar about 6"X 1 1/2" X 3/4" which I hold under the upper part of the top as a dolly to hammer in frets 14-19.

I tap the ends first then the center, when I use a hammer. When you seat the ends first, with curved wire, which I love, then the center taps push the end tangs in an outward motion. This tends to lock the outer tangs in an L shaped slot in the wood. It's a tiny one, but they do move outward, when you seat the center of the fret. I read this somewhere. May have been in one of Rick Turner's posts. I usually put some fish glue in the slot to lubricate the process and give a little extra strength to the holding power of the wood. Lately, I have been finishing the ends of my frets before installing them. It's tricky to get them even, but I'm getting better at it.

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Waddy

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Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Thank you everyone. This is a really helpful discussion for me. Does anyone have suggestions on how to finish the inside edges of a split 19th? This should be done before installing right? A picture of this would be helpful as I’m not sure how it’s supposed to look close up. Thanks.

Joe

I finish them after, same as the rest, to follow the edge of the FB. A fine cut round file works great.

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Build log

Ok. Thanks. I can’t remember where I heard that they should be pre-shaped.

Joe

1. No, but it can help.

2. No, but it can help.

3. Fret arched just a bit prior to installing. Ends first, then from the middle out to both ends. Try not to go back to the middle once you move toward the ends. Pressing can be a good method on a flat board.

4. If you need to clamp you are already in trouble.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Thanks Howard. To get some practice I hammered some test frets into the fretboard cutoff, paying attention to the guidance given above. One thing I found out is that the brass head on the fretting hammer is much harder than the soft fret wire as the crown of the fret flattened slightly in places whereas the nylon head of the hammer easily sets the fret without deforming the fret crown.



lol, I know; this sounds funny now that you mention it but I read that somewhere.

Joe