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Are there any options for the marriage strip other than end grain spruce? Why does it need to be end grain? How are you all making them? Input and options would be greatly appreciated.

Not end grain but crossgrain, its a little stronger this way in resisting any separation at the joint. though some have used longrain without problems.
Any timber you like can be used really as long as it is not too reactive to humidity changes. generally if your soundboad blank is a little long you can cut a strip or two off the end and use that, but you could cut from the back too.

You mean the cross grain strip down the back seam? I use mahogany, just because I got some cheap spare sides a while back that are nice thickness for it. I've most often seen them in mahogany and spruce, but I don't see why the species would matter on something so small. I just cut slices off the spare side, cut them to the length between back braces, and glue them on, leaving space for the braces (some people make a continuous strip down the center and then chisel out slots for the braces, but seems like more work to me). Then round them over with a block plane and finger plane, and glue the back braces.

And it is cross grain, not end grain. End grain would make a weak joint to the plate and a weak reinforcement too. Cross grain I assume is the standard because it makes the fibers run from one side of the back seam to the other, so it's like a bunch of little straps holding it together. But I think going along the grain would work too, as it would just be thickening the back there, which I believe is the reason for the reinforcement in the first place. The back joint itself is very thin after being routed out for the decorative backstrip.

I'm curious to hear other opinions though, and if you don't mind a semi-hijack, I'd like to add on another point; Is the reinforcement strip even necessary without a backstrip inlay? Usually if there's a sapwood stripe, I think it looks better to leave that as the center eye-catcher without any inlaid strip, and that leaves the joint at the full thickness of the plate. Backs are usually thinner than tops though, so maybe still a good idea to reinforce. I've always thought the strips were a little ugly in there though, especially on 3 and 4 piece backs. Also wonder if it would interfere with vibration enough to care.

By 'marriage strip', are you referring to Las Vegas?

I save the scrap from the upper and lower ends of spruce soundboards, which are typically 7" - 8.5" wide so they easily span the distance between back braces.

I made mine from tight-grained red cedar. Like CharlieT I used offcuts from my soundboard. Cut to width on the bandsaw and edges cleaned up with a plane.

-J.

Without the strip you would have a boring night - or you would be joining to pieces of wood with a butt joint - which in this case i would prefer to have the strip to strengthen the inherently weak joint.

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I agree that pretty much any stable wood can be used, but I think it is best cross-grain.
People are used to seeing a contrasting stripe, but any pleasing alternate can work.
Rosewood and Mahogany are two.
You don't absolutely need them without a back strip, but I like them in there, and they can help make your guitar distinctive.

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Thanks for the input and the correction about grain direction. It looks like I have more options than I realized I appreciate all the help.

I built a Weiss style 2 years ago, and forgot about putting that strip in.
I thought "uh-oh", and thought, "let's see what happens".
It's still okay, and doesn't have a backstrip inlay.

Wow, did a double take when I saw the title of this thread. All kinds of images none of them remotely connected to guitars!

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Get a couple low grade tops next time you order something, or at the local supply shop ... glue them up , then cut them into 5/8 -3/4 wide cross grain strips .... you'll have plenty for years unless you build 20 a year ...

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When I first saw this I was wondering why it wasn't in the "Off Topic" area . Logical question, the title was left wide open for a different interpretation.

You can also use whatever the back is made of if you have some room at the top or bottom of the plate to cut some strips. That's what I did on this one. I also put some purfs on it to fancy it up and laminated a walnut strip in a few of the braces.

Chris, every time I see this rosette, I just got WOW!

Now I'm going to have to go back and watch the tut again.

I love the idea of the added detail of lamination on the inside. Nice touch.

Steve

Thanks Steve,
As Alan Carruth once said about his basket weave rosettes,which has inspired me, it's more fussy then hard to do. Takes some time and patience as with any inlay. And in the case of this rosette my ablam cutting jig was essential. As for the interior I'm a member of the Todd Lunneborg (TL Guitars) school of fancy.