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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 9:57 am 
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Hi all,

So I'm wanting to set up a buffer and I'm wondering what buffs to get? I'll be getting them from Caswell Plating so those who have purchased buffs from them would be helpful. Also, I'll be using menzerna compound, so if I need different buffs for course and fine compounds let me know.

Finish is lacquer just so you know.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 10:49 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:15 pm
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First name: Ed
Last Name: Bond
City: Nanaimo
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
Here's what Joe White had to say...
As for the wheels, I am running 16x5x3/4 16 ply #2 60/60 cotton wheels on the heavy cut machine. Two wheels per side.

On the fine cut machine, I run 16x5x3/4 12 ply #2 Domet wheels, two per side. 

You will need six inch flanges to safely run these wheels since the center hubs are five inch.
You can get these wheels from Menzerna/Jescar USA. Talk to Joe Silver. End quote.

I have the Caswell machine with the wheels from their kit and found it useful for only one thing, buffing CD's and DVD's from the library so you can actually use them. If you get these buffs and find them useful (as seems likely if a respected finisher uses them) please post your experiences.
Thanks!  


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:04 am 
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Thanks for the reply MF,

Joe buffs Poly which is tougher than Nitro. My guess is his buffs are more specific to the Poly.

I was thinking of the loose canton flannel wheel in 14" but wanted some hands on experience from others.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:18 am 
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Make sure you get the 1100 RPM machine. I wish that they made a 700 RPM machine because I think that 1100 RPM is at the upper edge of the speed range for buffing guitars. The one that I have is the 3/4 HP version.

For buffs, I got mine from LMI as well as the Manzerna compounds. I use two buffs stacked on each side. One for Fine and the other for Medium compound. Once a buff is loaded with a given compound you should never switch to another grit.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:27 am 
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I'm making my own buffer. I'll be using a 1/4hp motor, 1" shaft with 3/4" threads at the ends. I have the motor and bearings and the shaft I can get made for beer. I'll set it up to run around 800rpm at the shaft.

I'll look at the LMI buffs.

edit: Now after looking at the LMI domet buffs, they are the same buffs as the Caswell Plating acrylic buffing wheels and cost about $1.40 less per buff.

What's the difference in use between the domet and the flannel wheels?

Why are there so many options out there?????

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 12:03 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Rod-
I bought a 'kit' from Caswell and it seems to work fine for me (buffing nitro lacquer and FP) with Menzerna sticks, but according to what I've subsequently read here at the OLF, it shouldn't work at all!
http://www.caswellcanada.ca/shop/product.php?productid=29690&cat=104&page=1

Cheers
John


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:02 pm 
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Hey John, That's pretty much identical to the Stew Mac buffing arbour kit (the old one) Can't see why that wouldn't work, good price too.

Hey, I have not forgotten about those pipettes. Just can't seem to get my act together to get them in the mail (along with a few other things).

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:23 pm 
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Koa
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Rod True wrote:
I'm making my own buffer. I'll be using a 1/4hp motor, 1" shaft with 3/4" threads at the ends. I have the motor and bearings and the shaft I can get made for beer. I'll set it up to run around 800rpm at the shaft.

I'll look at the LMI buffs.

edit: Now after looking at the LMI domet buffs, they are the same buffs as the Caswell Plating acrylic buffing wheels and cost about $1.40 less per buff.

What's the difference in use between the domet and the flannel wheels?

Why are there so many options out there?????


Why so many options? I once read an article about different methods of doing the same thing across cultures. There are two reasons for there to be a lot of different methods for doing the same thing. The first reason is that nothing works very well. People are motivated to try new ways to solve a problem in hope that they will do a better job. The second reason is that practically anything you try will work. In that case, people stop looking for a better way because they are happy with the method that they have. Someone else with do it another way and also be happy with what they have get.

Guitar finishing is, in my opinion, in the first group. Nothing really works very well and everybody is trying new things all the time in the vain hope that will find a better method. Attaching a fretboard to a neck is likely in the second category. Fret before or after mounting the board, fretting before or after attaching the neck, tapering the board before or after attaching it to the neck. I've seen it done all different ways and all seem to do a pretty good job of getting the fretboard on the neck.

The third example is when everybody seems to adopt the same method. I think go-bars fall into this category. It is simple to understand, cheap to implement, easy to do, and it works. Yes, I know that some builders are using vacuum now but there is a cost barrier to the wide spread adoption of vacuum clamping.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 3:44 pm 
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Rod True wrote:
I was thinking of the loose canton flannel wheel in 14" but wanted some hands on experience from others.


FWIW, that's what I've used (#CF14)....3 sets (of 2) for 3 compounds.
Not sure if the acrylics are "better" (for EM6000) but I'd be interested to know!

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 3:55 pm 
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Koa
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Rod, I have to again reccommend speaking with Jeff Silver at Jescar (Menzerna USA) he knows guitar buffing extremely well and if you talk with him and explain the material you are buffing, he will be able to maximize your efforts with the correct wheel size and material. I have been using the same setup and wheels for about 100 to 150 guitars now and couldn't be happier. Menzerna USA= 877-453-7227

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2010 6:38 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Location: Toronto, Canada
Hi Rod,

Below is what I purchased from them, it has been working fine for me with menzerna compounds and Target waterbourne. I use a separate pair for each grit.


CFW107-3/4 Canton Flannel Wheel Options: Size: 10" x 5/8"
Punch Hole Size: 3/4"

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2010 11:20 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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State: Alabama
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Rod, I'm very happy with my loose canton 14" wheels, two per side.

Mike


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