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 Post subject: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:31 pm 
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First name: Wendy
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Up until now I have been buying kerfing and cutting it into tantellones. I want to use some wider purfling on the top and am thinking of making a little bit deeper tantellone. Anyone have any interesting method for making them. Thanks, Wendy


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 Post subject: Re: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:35 pm 
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I just cut them on the band saw. It's angled cuts and straight cuts. Pretty simple.

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 Post subject: Re: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 2:12 pm 
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Simple and tedious. I was kind of hoping for a shortcut. I kind of enjoy the long process of gluing them in, but not cutting them.


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 Post subject: Re: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:15 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Dentellones. When I am feeling brave (once in 2 or 3 guitars) I am cutting them by hand with a Japanese saw. It's not such a big deal if you have patience.

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 Post subject: Re: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:04 pm 
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callyrox wrote:
Simple and tedious. I was kind of hoping for a shortcut. I kind of enjoy the long process of gluing them in, but not cutting them.


Hmm. I take the long road so my method may not be for you but here's what I do.

http://johnjayplatko.com/buildingasteelguitar35.aspx

I'm pretty sure this is about as tedious as it gets.

John


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 Post subject: Re: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:39 pm 
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Filippo;
Would it work to saw them from the other side, leaving the "fuzzies" on the opposite side from the gluing surface... Then sand off the fuzzy bits, once they are glued in???
You'd have to protect the top with some kind of mask, but it might just work.


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 Post subject: Re: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:51 pm 
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I made a neat little cutting jig - just like this one in the picture - that I got off of a ukalele site - not sure who made the jig - but I copied it - and it works great !


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 Post subject: Re: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 9:31 pm 
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Once I make up the strips, I tape them all together and cut a whole bunch of strips at the same time. The tape keeps the cut pieces from flying all over the place.

I have done it with a handsaw, but now I use the radial arm saw. Once you decide to settle in and make some, you may as well make a lot!

Dentellones and kerfed lining shown together.


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 Post subject: Re: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 7:56 pm 
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Actually John, what I find to be tedious is anything that has to be done over and over with the drone of a power tool. I would find your method by hand to be very relaxing. Now I have 2 more questions regarding dentallones: 1)Does everyone use the same standard size of 5/8 long by 7/32 deep, regardless of how wide a purfling pattern you use on the top? And 2)what types of wood are acceptable for dentallones in a classical. I went to my local hardwood and lumber store today hoping for some spruce, but they had none. Can you use mahogany or Spanish cedar? I know you can use it for the back kerfing or lining, but I'm talking about detallones for the top.


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 Post subject: Re: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 2:42 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Really there are lots of woods that would work great, but Spanish cedar, mahogany or spruce would be the first choices. I think you get less cutting fuzz with cedar. I used cypress too.
The standard bought 5.5mm width is OK for most purfling schemes but if you go wide you should increase the width (can go to as wide as 8mm) in order to have a reasonable amount of plate-lining overhang, say at least 2mm.

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 Post subject: Re: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 7:37 am 
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Tentellones?
The traditional method is to cut a rift sawn stick into squares, then split each square with a chisel or a knife.

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 Post subject: Re: Making Tantellones
PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 8:16 am 
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callyrox wrote:
Actually John, what I find to be tedious is anything that has to be done over and over with the drone of a power tool. I would find your method by hand to be very relaxing. Now I have 2 more questions regarding dentallones: 1)Does everyone use the same standard size of 5/8 long by 7/32 deep, regardless of how wide a purfling pattern you use on the top? And 2)what types of wood are acceptable for dentallones in a classical. I went to my local hardwood and lumber store today hoping for some spruce, but they had none. Can you use mahogany or Spanish cedar? I know you can use it for the back kerfing or lining, but I'm talking about detallones for the top.


That's exactly what made me switch from the bandsaw method to the hand tool method.

I use Spanish cedar, mostly for the scent. There are lots of choices.

John


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