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.100 thick for me.

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

This depends on what I am working on. A slot head may have a thicker veneer than a pan head. For me the rule of thumb is .060 for pan head and up to .100 on slot heads.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

.10" for me.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Mine (classical) are 0.085, usually plus a sheet or two of veneer.

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Build log

60-80 thou, plus veneer lines ....

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

.062", except when not.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Good question Chris....I'm watchin this one....

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

Generally .080 to .100 or so. Quite often this is just eyeballed. Nothing much here that is fussy in my mind.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

.065" to .080" in most cases for a non slotted peg head. I tend to bookmatch my headplates also.

Chuck

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Mine are 0.1 also.

Say, does anyone here taper the peghead?

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"Building guitars looks hard, but it's actually much harder than it looks." Tom Buck

When planning on thickness it is a good idea to check the tuners you are using. I have seen more than 1 guitar where the builder missed that part and then the post was too short and the threaded ferrule didn't hold. In the case of Martin , they use .0625

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Yep, You never noticed? I do about 1/16" like Chris V.

Steve

I know what You do, Steve. I just completely discount that... KIDDING!!! Thanks for the heads up on that...

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"Building guitars looks hard, but it's actually much harder than it looks." Tom Buck

I have probably cut a couple thousand head plates, mostly 'leftovers' from cutting backs and sides. I like to sell them as thick as possible, because it gives the buyer more options, and thicker wood is less delicate to ship. I tend to leave them thick until I am ready to use them. Most of the headplates I use are Martin style (1/16" nominal). I have done a few tapered thickness pegheads, but most of my solid heads these days are a uniform 9/16".
You could always ask the seller to thickness sand the head plates to your specification.

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John

[quote="SteveCourtright"]Mine are 0.1 also.

Say, does anyone here taper the peghead?

Only on mandolins. Overlay varies from 1/16-1/8" depending on whether it's bound and whether it's laminated on the side.

Yea... I decided to order some guitar woods which also includes enough for a headplate (since a standard guitar side or back doesn't really provide enough wood to make a complete headplate unless I am making a ukulele or something), and the supplier gives me a block of (Indian Rose)wood around 3" wide, 7" long, and around 1" thick! I would have said "hey thank you!" except I have no way of resawing... and I am not planing that entire block to 1/8" so I can use it as a headplate!

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Typically 3/32 for me if I do the pinstripe designs it will bring it up to 1/8.