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Assuming you're patching spruce, I use an X-acto knife for cutting out the area to be splinted, then a wedge-shaped file. I've only done them where I could terminate the end, either at the bridge, purfling, or pickguard. Hide glue is best, but the pieces need to be well-warmed or they'll stick wherever they make first contact, and you still must work fast when working the splint down into the top. When cutting the splint, bear in mind you'll get some swelling when the glue goes on. Dark amber would work if that's the color of the rest of the top. Best thing is to nail the color on scrap first. You'll not likely get an invisible repair, but a good one will not stand out.
I keep a bit of top cutoff from every build, with the customer's name, in case a splint is needed. It doesn't pay off often, but when it does, it makes things a lot easier.
This is one repair that can turn bad in a very short time, so practice on scrap, or a junker.
Pat
_________________ formerly known around here as burbank _________________ http://www.patfosterguitars.com
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