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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:14 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:52 am
Posts: 133
State: PA
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I know that many folks prefer to FP before gluing on the bridge. This is a question for those who FP after the bridge is glued on:

For spiriting off & glazing, long strokes the length of the top are recommended. With the bridge in place, one must either stop at the bridge, or make a U-turn, or at least turn somehow. What strokes do you use here?

I've had good success with French polishing tops with glued-on bridges. However, I've always done abrasive leveling, which contributes to the success of my technique. For my current project, I'd though I'd see if I could get a hi-gloss surface with just glazing, followed by Meguirs #7. Perhaps some abrasive leveling will always have to be done around the bridge?

How do you glued-on-bridge FPers glaze?

-Steve


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:31 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:05 am
Posts: 9191
Location: United States
First name: Waddy
Last Name: Thomson
City: Charlotte
State: NC
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
I FP with the bridge on, and I don't pay much attention to direction of strokes. I use cross grain strokes when I need to for bodying, spiriting off, and for glazing. I use circular strokes for bodying, generally, and make myself a small muneca for working tight spots (around the bridge around the neck joint, and along the fingerboard) which often use in a straight line, right up against the obstuction, with a little corner. It seems to work fine for me. If you spirit off after every body session, it removes most of the ridges. What I do is to work the area with circular strokes, then come back over with straight strokes, to make sure everything is covered. I try to keep it mixed up but I'm not anal about it. For glazing it does not matter. Glazing strokes should be light enough not to leave much in the way of ridges. Spiriting off doesn't seem to matter either. At the wings of the bridge, I can't tell where I've changed direction in my strokes, and that's the worst place for me.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 11:08 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:45 pm
Posts: 94
Location: Windermere, FL
The thing I find hard about FP with the bridge on,
Is keeping the color even when using orange or the darker varieties.
Obviously not a problem with blond or extra blond.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 11:09 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:22 am
Posts: 393
First name: Martin
Last Name: Lane
City: Grand Rapids
State: Michigan
Focus: Build
I had a problem with my first FP attempt where I thought I was done, glued the bridge on, and too much oil left on my finish left it looking pasty. so I kept going after the bridge was on and now it's looking much better. I put masking tape on the sides of the bridge so I would get shellac dabs on it. I used a normal muneca and went all around the top like Waddy. for my small muneca, I used a linen cover only, with no inner part, wadded up kinda teeny so it could go right up against the bridge. I got a decent result.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 11:20 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:45 pm
Posts: 94
Location: Windermere, FL
lately I've been starting with Blond.
Using it as a kind of clear coat.
I take it until it is evenly built
and then I move on to Orange to give it that warm Glow.
Seems to produce a very even and consistent color.

I only do this for Tops.

On the back and sides I use a spit coat of blond and then move straight into Orange or Seedlac.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 8:54 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2009 9:48 am
Posts: 46
First name: Ronald
Last Name: Denis
City: Haileybury
State: Ontario
Zip/Postal Code: p0j-1k0
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Something that I have always wondered.
If you polish with a glaze such as Meguiar's (Ron Fernandez also advocates this on his French Polish video); how do you refinish a spot ?
I understand that French polishing is easy to refinish but once wax and glazes are applied?
Ronald


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 9:11 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:52 am
Posts: 133
State: PA
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
RonaldD wrote:
Something that I have always wondered.
If you polish with a glaze such as Meguiar's (Ron Fernandez also advocates this on his French Polish video); how do you refinish a spot ?
I understand that French polishing is easy to refinish but once wax and glazes are applied?
Ronald


From the Material Safety Data Sheet, Meguiars #7 contains:

Diatomaceous earth 4-8%
Glycerin 1-5%
Light distillate (light oil) 10-20%
Hydrotreated Distillate 5-10%
The remainerder is "non-hazardous", so maybe it's water?

My understanding the Meguiars glaze is a burnishing compound & does not really leave much of a residue after it is removed. I may be wrong, but I do not think it leaves a wax, unless the hydrotreated distillate is a really heavy hydrocarbon. I've had no trouble doing additional French polishing after a Meguiars treatment. I do not use any wax.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 10:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:05 am
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Location: United States
First name: Waddy
Last Name: Thomson
City: Charlotte
State: NC
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Meguires leaves no residue, if you wipe it off. You can touch up without doing anything. I have done it many times.

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