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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 12:00 pm 
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For a time, I had been using very small droplets of CA to hold an inlay in place while scribing and cutting the border. Now and again the bond was more than I wanted and I fear(from experience) dribbling acetone around finished guitar surfaces for removal. Sometimes even my little dabs just still stick too well, and prying with a shaped and sharp- honed palette knife has pulled up wood(this would be OK if the pulled up wood was always within the outlines of the inlay).

I have tried carpet tape but sometimes its elasticity allows more wiggle than I want while scribing.

Have any of you successfully thinned CA even more-to get instant stick down but easier removal. Or perhaps I should switch to a water based glue for the temporary affixing- slower to dry I suppose to be the only drawback there. Very clean inlay with little fill is one of the few above average skills I have which I can devote to luthierie-otherwise, you folks know I describe myself as a "hack."(but, hey, I'm an enthusiastic hack) I have been doing neck and peghead inlays on the 5 stringed "instrument which shall not here be named" :) and working with smaller pieces of inlay but if I get good help on this I have a bunch of guitar necks to do as well-some with little components but more with larger pieces. (I can do Les Paul trapezoids and blocks mindlessly because I made a template pattern for my pin router-wish I could do the same with less mundane shapes).

Maybe I should just use newspaper in between-often used for lathe turning temporary positioning?

Any advice appreciated. mt

NOTE; THOSE WITH "TAS," KEEP YOUR EYE ON CLASSIFIEDS OVER NEXT COUPLE WEEKS


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 2:43 pm 
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First name: Tom
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Mike: I've used Ambroid model aircraft cement for years.Then acetone to loosen after marking. If you use a lot of cement it can be a bit harder to remove.
Tom

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 3:47 pm 
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Duco cement is sort of the standard for this application. It prys up easily.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 6:30 pm 
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I' be loathe to thin CA for fear it might just spread out better, which could cause more harm than good. You could always shrink your dots down; put a drop of CA on something it won't cure on instantly and pick up your droplets with the top of a scalpel or even a pin. You can make some pretty small dots with a needle!

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 8:00 pm 
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Just a dab of duco is what I've always used too. If it's a small piece and you are worried about it cracking a little of acetone will release it. But usually with a small dot of duco on it a razor blade will remove it. Also hold the piece down with your finger while scribing around it if you have concerns of it popping off.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:46 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Did u mention TAS???!? Yes, I was diagnosed with it two years ago. Hope your remedy will help me!! I also suffer from excessive GAS.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:51 pm 
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Hey Mike, have you tried something like PVA? You can heat the piece up with a heat gun and pull off. Thinning CA will just make it wick better. Please take this advice with a grain of salt, I wouldn't want you to hurt yourself. (thinnly veiled attempt at sardonic humor)


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 9:43 am 
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I use Testors green tube model airplane cement. Relatively weak bond, easily scrapes off with a razor blade, or with a little acetone.
Same basic stuff as Duco. Never used CA for holding the inlay down, always WAY too strong.

Find it online or any hobby shop.

Good luck,
Craig

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 10:25 am 
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I got my last tube of Duco and they had Tester's too at the local Ace Hardware.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 6:03 pm 
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Thanks-going with the Testor's or Duco.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 11:35 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Has anybody besides me noticed that Testors ain't what it used to be? I think the anti-glue sniffing coallition got a hold of the maker. It in no way melts plastic like it used to.


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