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After breaking my 14" bandsaw, and after reading all the good bandsaw threads recently, I'm about ready to pop for a G0513X2 17" with cast iron trunnion and wheels. http://grizzly.com/products/17-Bandsaw-2HP-w-Cast-Iron-Trunnion/G0513X2.

For an extra $155 they have a model with a motor brake available. I've used the foot brakes before on bandsaws and like them but don't have any experience with motor brakes on anything that large.

Can anyone provide any feedback on the motor brake in particular and on the saw in general?

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I have NO REAL experience, but my two year wait for a bandsaw is over(funds available tomorrow AM). I am going for the G0514x2. I am pretty sure the foot brake on these is just a kill switch, not a friction break. IMHO just an electronic component that will likely fail. I would rather have a friction brake, but since that doesn't seem to be an option, I will go with the foot break over the motor break. I think the motor break engages a large resistor to slow it down, but I am probably wrong. ANYONE?

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It is better to try and fail, than never try at all

According to the Go513X2b manual the motor brake should stop the saw in 3 seconds after it's turned off. The brake is a mag brake type operating off of the motor. So I answered my own question about the brake - I'll get it unless I hear something contradictory.

Also according to the manual/parts breakdown the footbrake on the G0514X2 is a friction brake.

Still looking for input from anyone who has the saw.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Thanks Todd, that's what I was thinking after I got home from work and was looking at the manual. I'm a EE but I don't work with motors so would like to know more if someone can offer some insight.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I would go for the 19" and forget the brake. No issues with carbide blades etc. They all stop eventually, and for free.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/19-3-HP ... saw/G0514X

19" would be nice but I'm pushing it to shoe horn a 17" into the space. If I can swing the extra cash for the brake I'm going to go ahead and get it although it wouldn't be a deal breaker if I couldn't.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

It's that much of a diiference? Somebody correct me if I an wrong, but the very minimum radius for carbide blades is 18". U prolly can put one on a 17", but you may never get it up to full tension, and it may not last as long either due to bending stresses. Of course, carbide tipped blades are ok on most if not all radii.

I'm already intruding into my door/entry area about 8" the Rikon 18" and the Grizzly both add another 5 to 6 inches. I've been resawing ok with my upgraded and tweaked 14" so I expect a 17" saw should be a huge improvement. The blades I was looking at, the Lennox TriMaster and WoodMaster CT are carbide tipped, aren't they?

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I don't know any specifics about the motor brake on that saw but the one on my chop saw has lasted 25 years and counting. And it saw some hard use for many of those years.

I have that bandsaw without the brake and I would pay extra to have it. Mine is still going plenty fast to cut off a finger a full 20-30 seconds after I turn it off. If you are working with a dust collector going and ear protection on, you'll never hear that the blade is still running. I've come close to getting bitten a couple of times after walking away from the saw and coming back.

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http://www.chassonguitars.com

All of this seems to beg the question: why don't makers simply add the braking circuit so that when you hit the stop button, it engages? Prolly has something to do with motor design (brushed vs induction)

Or cost. I see it everywhere.......the buying public walking around checking prices at target only to get in their car and drive a mile down the road to buy what they were looking at for 7 cents cheaper at Walmart. Never mind that it cost them 10 times that to drive to Walmart instead of just going home. Obviously this observation is anecdotal but I think it's safe to assume it's concept is not limited to Target and Walmart.

There's plenty of buyers out there that won't spend that extra 29 dollars to get a brake. Not cuz they don't think they need one but because it's 29 dollars. Saws are probably safer with them...but if you are the company making them and you decide ALL your saws will have them you may actually end up with a smaller piece of the market share and a higher cost of manufacture...and it's all because of the the above mentioned.

I think I'm falling off topic here so I'll stop.

Yes Steve - those two blades are carbide tipped. Iturra says you really only need to consider band fatigue when wrapping wheels under 16 inches in diameter. I've never used that saw or even seen one but I'll bet it'll properly tension a 3/4 tooth 3/8th's Tri-master. It's a great blade that leaves really nice results. Final kerf is almost 60 thou but leaves a baby skin smooth finish. I've done wide Cocobolo with it. Just don't turn the saw on without the tension lever set (like I did) or allow it to grab a hunk of wood and play monkey football with it and break things....again like I did.

Chris

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

Good input everyone, thanks! Now that I have a clue about how the brake works I'm going to get it.

Chris, the 17" Grizz is rated to take up to a 1" blade. I'm hoping I can properly tension at least a 3/4" blade for resawing but it sounds like you're saying you prefer the 3/8" blade?

I've been using a 1/2" blade on my 14", of course it has an Iturra spring on it which no doubt helped that upper wheel bracket fail.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

When I was researching bandsaws trying to figure out what to get to replace my 14...I called Todd because I was getting conflicting pieces of information here and there. Reading all the forums and reviews and whatever bits and pieces I could get my hands on. I was concerned about tensioner mechanisms and the Rikon's ability to tension a 1 inch woodmaster ct. I forget the specifics about what he said but in essence the Rikon was certainly not going to have a problem. I bought it. Best decision I ever made. Wish it had a brake but oh well. Now I just stand there and wait for it to stop cuz I'm scared to death of it when I can't hear it.

As to the blade choice I've tried just about everything except the Laguna Resaw King. I use the 3/8th's trimaster for general purpose work and occasional resaw on small parts...and I use the Woodmaster CT on back and side sets and tops. HOWEVER, IF you're in a money pinch, the 3/8th's trimaster will perform resaw duties until you can get a woodmaster or other blade. I've done it with fantastic results.

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There is no difference between the man that thinks he can....and the man that thinks he cannot.

Guys, some good advice. I've just ordered a WoodMaster CT for $96. The 3/8" Trimaster was $226 so it will have to wait. In the meantime I got a Lennox FlexBack 3/8" steel blade for general use. Guess I better get the saw on order.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

What I meant about the brake circuit was the design. Those with the big foot pedal, I assumed they were all friction types. I would like a brake that worked off the motor being turned into a generator like on my miter saw. So, when I hit the off switch, it just slows down faster.

I think folks should have the choice of brake or no brake... sorry for the confusion. My saw does not have a magnetic switch. Ticks me off. I will be replacing that.

Don't forget that you can get Resaw King Blades (3/4"-1.25") in the sub $100 range if you order directly from Tito.

Mike