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 Post subject: Top Gluing Question
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 12:44 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2010 8:30 pm
Posts: 234
First name: Peter
Country: England
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi All,


I am ready to glue on the top to my sides. It was at this point I made a huge mistake on build #1 (which is now not classed as a build at all). Basically, I lined up the top badly when gluing which resulted in the top not being in perfect position. This resulted in the sound hole being about 1/2" further to one side than the other which gave it an awful look.

So although this may seem fairly simple to a seasoned builder (or anyone who has been shown what to do), what is the easiest way to make sure without a doubt the top is perfectly in position to be glued? I was planing on using the joint of the sides with the joint of the top as a reference, however the sides were short so they didn't meet when gluing (but after an end piece it was fine).

I used spool clamps before, which is why I think the original mistake happened, this time I plan on using my mould combined with go-bars.

Any tips or advice would be great. I have a few ideas but none of which seem as simple as I'm sure it could be.

Pete


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 Post subject: Re: Top Gluing Question
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 12:57 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:42 am
Posts: 1584
Location: United States
If you are using a radius dish, or if you build flat, I suggest that you lay the top upside down on the dish or flat surface and flip the sides over with the mold and lay them onto the top with the sides protruding so the mold does not lay on the work surface. In my opinion, the weight of the mold is enough for the glue to bond well. If you want more weight, you can stack something on top. In preparing for this, position and clamp or otherwise afix some stops around the edge of the work so that the top drops into place, and then the sides are held in place by the same stops. Without the stops, you run the risk of the sides slipping off--the wet glue is like grease. You will need wax paper to protect from having the top or sides glue to the work surface and stops. Test it all dry, first.


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 Post subject: Re: Top Gluing Question
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 2:46 pm 
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Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2008 4:10 pm
Posts: 2764
First name: Tom
Last Name: West
State: Nova Scotia
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Pete: I let the four ends of the X brace into the linings so that they just touch the sides. If done accurately the top must line up with the centre line of the guitar and will not move unless brace ends slip out of notch.
Tom

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 Post subject: Re: Top Gluing Question
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 3:25 pm 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:36 am
Posts: 7473
Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37772
Country: US
Focus: Repair
I drill a hole through the top into the neck block where it will be hidden by the fretboard and pin it with a tooth pick. I make easy to see marks for the other end and line it up when I glue. I put the top face down in a radius dish and glue it on in my go-bar deck.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"


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 Post subject: Re: Top Gluing Question
PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 9:15 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 10:44 am
Posts: 6262
Location: Virginia
I'll second the pin method, though I hammer in brads. BTW I did a similar oops on my first. The top slipped during clamping and one of the braces that was suposed to be notched in was actually laying on the top of the linings. Didn't notice it till the next day. If you have not already bound the guitar then just remove the top and try again, worked for me.


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