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Hello all,

I recently picked up a Taylor GA8-12 and the action is far too high for my grip strength (onset of arthritis at 23 ). I figured it would be a good chance to give it a go myself. The information I have found so far says that to lower the action the nut slots need filing (which I don't want to do myself if that is the case) as well as the saddle being sanded.

Quote:
"Set Height at the 1st Fret:
This is probably best left to a competent technician. The string height above the first fret is lowered by filing the string slots out."

Every guide seems different so I was wondering if someone could either confirm what this tutorial says, or if someone can provide a tried an tested tutorial. If all else fails, I will take it to my local tech.

Thanks.

Peter-
Hopefully the nut height will not turn out to be a problem.
Put on a capo at the 1st fret and see if the playing ease in the lower positions is dramatically easier.
This should help to point you to the nut or saddle as possible areas for adjustment.
Proceed with caution, as with 12 strings the possibilities for buzzing and rattles are numerous!

Any 12-string guitar I ever played seemed to need a fair bit of 'muscle', so perhaps not the best choice if you are having hand problems.

Also, I hope you have gotten some medical advice on your hand problem- perhaps drugs/physio/exercise (or not) could help?

Cheers
John

Thanks for the reply John.

I played the same model in a local shop who had it set up very low and I could play it for a fairly long time (50 minutes or so) before my hands gave out.

I have played a few songs with the capo up and down the neck and I am finding it fairly hard work all over., I think i will just have to take it to my local store and see what he can do for me.

My hands have become better in the last few years as I don't play as much sport as I used to. I played a lot of contact sports and competed in martial arts from the age of 5 and I have broken my thumbs at least 3 times each along with various dislocations. My doctor said playing the guitar will help me in the long run as it strengthens hands, but just to take it easy when they are painful. Half the reason I play fingerstyle now as I find it puts less impact on my left hand.

Set up skills are needed for building, get the nut slot files and learn how rather than relying on some tech in a shop who does not really know your needs.

That would tend to point toward the saddle for action adjustment.

My recommendation: Get some saddle blanks and make a replacement saddle and modify that one- save the original as the model.

If you have hand problems and are going to work on a 12-string (especially) make sure you have a 'string crank'! I like the kind that goes in a cordless driver.

Cheers
John

Did you check the neck relief? I'd do that first.

I would take it step by step

1. Check out the guitar and make sure that the neck is not in need of a reset. A straight edge extending off of the neck on top of the frets should be pretty close to the top of the bridge itself. If the geometry is not there then stop and figure out what is wrong.

2. If number one is ok then set the relief you want with the truss rod. You can use a string fretted at the third and twelfth frets to check this by pressing the string around the sixth fret. I like just a little pressure to tap the string down onto the fret. If the string is touching with everything fretted then you need a little more relief. If there is a big gap then a little less.

3. With good relief check the height of the strings over the first fret when fretting at the third fret. I like it to be very close but not touching. Maybe a 64th over or so.

4. Finally check the height of the strings at the twelfth fret. I like 4 or 5 64ths on the low e and a little less on the high e. These numbers are all personal and could be different for a 12 string.

I got all this info from the Kent Everett DVD on set up and from Robbie O'briens u-tube video. Any errors in the above info are strictly my fault and not theirs. I usually refer to my notes when setting up and may have missed a step here.

With the step by step method it is fairly straight forward to dial in a guitars action and playability.

_________________
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Yes, increasing relief seems so counterintuitive. But, it is really such a critical first step. I have severe arthriris in my hands from steering wheels spinning wildly in racing crashes and I am taking the ultimate route---building a 12 fret to the body, 24.9 scale 12 string near to Martin specs. But the numbers given by Steve and Todd should really make a 12 play about as softly as you can expect. Plus, their order of business is crucial to setup success.

Recently I have had to sell my two real Les Pauls(24.625 scale) and have a "burst"(or two) build replacement(s) in progress. Meanwhile, I am playing my really high quality "strat partscaster." That scale length makes a big difference. To soften it as much as possible, I started with adding relief to .015 at the 9th(that much is not unusual on a Strat). But, I almost had to "force" myself to do it. From there, I found I could tune the nut slots a bit(used the capo at 4th) and got the low "E" to .008 at 1st and high "E" to .006. Then I was able to use the easy adjustments to lower the saddles a bit-was very careful to keep radius at 9.5 or just a touch flatter. It still feels stiff compared to my LP's but I gained quite a bit of comfort-no audible buzzing when amped-a tiny bit unamped with aggressive attack.