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Ok, so I built my binding jig yesterday. Don't really have a "POLICY" as to why I built this one, it just looked like it would do the job.

Routed out the ledge for my binding this morning. Did the purfling ledge first and then the binding ledge, did it in this order to keep the bearing from dropping off in the binding ledge while doing the purfling and also allowed me to find the proper depth for the binding and keep it set up for both back and top (no purfling on the back). Everything went well. Seems to be consistent all the way around on both sides.

What is the best way to get rid of the spruce fuzz from the edge of the top and the edge where the purfling and binding channel meet.

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Tim

I use a sanding block, a flat sanding stick with some double-sided tape and sandpaper, or a narrow file. Anything will work, the main thing is to be carful around the top edge and don't round off the corner. The edge where the binding and purfling channels meet is not as critical if you accidentally round it a little, but it is best to work carefully and try to leave the edges square.

Josh

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Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
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House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
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Tim:
I am impressed by your binding jig. Is it a commercial monitor mount or did you design and build it yourself. This is one jig that I can get my mind around. Neat design.

Your solera is fine work but then I'm new to this.

Bob

Bob, it is a copy of one I saw in this thread. Built it myself, took about 4-5 hours. Hardest part was figuring out what to use for the donut and getting it the right size.
If you build it make sure you sandwich the pieces when you drill holes and tape them together and set aside until ready for use. Otherwise you will have to take some of it apart and flip pieces over like I did.

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=18515&hilit=+binding+machine+

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Tim

Tim, If you put a coat of shellac on first it will help you get a cleaner cut with less clean-up. It also helps release of the binding tape( less tearout ).

I agree with Mark shellac helps keep the fuzz from being so heavy and I do as Josh suggests for sanding, also be careful not to tear fibers from the top while working. I also cut the binding 1st so there is less wood to remove when doing the purfling which also seems to help. I am also going to get a new LMI cutter to just use on the spruce so it stays sharper.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

I just carefully go around with a very sharp chisel...

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Rob

I'll put some 120G adhesive sandpaper on a short piece of binding. Makes a nice little sanding stick to clean up the channels.
TJK

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

For sanding 'in the rabbet' (as mentioned be careful not to round over), an emery (fingernail) board works well- it follows the curves . (My wife says Revlon are the good ones...).
Emery boards are cheap; they don't last long, so chuck 'em out.
***Be careful not to contaminate the spruce with darker (eg rosewood) dust on your sandpaper.*** It pays to be a bit careful about keeping the sandpaper separated, or use fresh stuff for working on the spruce.

Don't forget to round over (a bit) the inside 'corner' of your binding; it helps it to sit a bit more squarely in the ledge.

Cheers
John

What about Lacquer Sanding sealer? Will that work the same as shellac prior to routing and will it work to keep C A from leaching into the end grain of the spruce?

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Tim

Sanding sealer will do the same thing. But try to keep shellac or sealer away from the bridge area as that can cause glue down issues when putting on the bridge if you don't get it all off before glueing. You don't want anything soaking down through the wood in that area that will later affect glue-down of the bridge.

Thanks for the info Mark. I never did get an answer yesterday and never being gun shy I pulled the trigger and it worked out fine. Top binding and purfling is on. I only sprayed the channel and about an inch of the top. The areas where I have started sanding are showing no residue of the CA or sanding sealer.

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Tim