There are two schools on this:
- use a flat UTB and flatten the upper bout of the rim - use a radiused UTB that will go on the radiused rim, and flatten the area of the top where the FB will be glued afterwards.
I use a 3rd method for cylindrical plates, which is to use a radiused UTB, but flattened on 3" in the middle. The neck block (and upper foot) is also flat. That allows me to keep the top full thickness there.
The most important, with any method, is to carefully take into account your FB and bridge thicknesses (and how much the top may rise with string tension), and work the necessary angle at the neck block for a healthy saddle height and action, and no 12th or 14th fret hump.
_________________ Laurent Brondel West Paris, Maine - USA http://www.laurentbrondel.com/
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