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PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 8:49 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2010 3:09 am
Posts: 2
First name: Ron
Last Name: Jenkins
City: Invercargill
State: Southland
Zip/Postal Code: 9812
Country: New Zealand
Focus: Repair
Status: Amateur
Hi...I would be extremely grateful for an opinion on resetting the 6th string pin on a Taylor 815C Wide Neck ... Originally I made and replaced the bridge due to this guitar.. although being purchased new by its original owner as a wide neck was unaware that Taylor had a double edged sword IE it kept the pin placement as normal unless one paid another $150 ???...Anyway I bought the guitar on a fleeting visit to LA and it was not til I got back home that I found all this out and realised I had a problem ...So after Taylor sent me a blank bridge I did all the accepted procedure ..doweled the soundboard..carefully made a bridge with new pinholes,glued it on and the guitar has been just magical ever since but I know now with its wide neck and "my hands" the 6th string is just not right to enable my thumb to grab it as I want to...

So it seems to me that I could drill the 6th string pin hole and plug it with an ebony dowel and then redo a new pin hole so that the 6th string traveled evenly up the fingerboard close to the fingerboard edge.... I know this will naturally increase the space between the 6th and 5th strings but I do not think it will be a problem playing wise...
I would be grateful knowing if I could end up with a problem doing this and whether there is an alternative ...Thanks Ron


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 7:17 am 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:51 am
Posts: 3786
Location: Canada
Maybe I'm mising something .. but why would you go to all the trouble of putting on a new bridge, and not change the pinholes in the first place ??? or if you did, did something still not line up as you wnated it too ??? If it were me, I would make another bridge, its not that hard.

Something else you could try to see what kindof spacing you want is to make a taller saddle, and then slot it, so that the spacing is where you want .. I had a clients kottke model in hte shop years ago and the high E always fell off the FB when doing pulloffs .. something wasnt right as the string was awfully close the to edge .. so I slotted the saddle to help move it in and keep it there. Easier than making a new bridge to fix it

_________________
Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 7:41 am 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:44 am
Posts: 5586
First name: colin
Last Name: north
Country: Scotland.
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Seems to me a new bridge would be best to have even string spacings.
I drill pin holes after gluing bridge on, that way I know everything lines up OK.
Fit the nut with slots cut, put on a first E, mark on masking tape at the end of fretboard where I want the 1st and 6th strings to pass over it (about 4 mm in from edge)
Pulling string tight, mark position when it passes over the bridge on masking tape.
Transfer to sixth E at nut, similarily mark position of that on the tape over the bridge.
Use string spacing rule between these marks, mark string spacings (you could eyeball them).
Drill, tapered reamer, countersink, slot pin holes.

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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