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All of the techniques that I've seen for leveling fretboards do exactly that - "level" them, so that a completely flat (lengthwise - radiused in the other direction, if appropriate) board is the objective. This implies that the tension of the strings and adjustment of the trussrod are what impart relief. Have I got it right?

The reason I'm asking is that on my latest build, after a couple of days of tension with strings on, there's still no relief - e.g. the fretboard is almost completely flat - using the kent Everett approach for checking relief (fingers on 1st and 12th frets - lightly pluck string to see if it's got any clearance at 7th fret -still getting lots of buzz.) What do I need to do? Adjust the truss rod (again)? Be patient? Thanks.

I find my guitars need more than a couple days for the neck wood to relax and impart relief .. might take a couple weeks or more, depending on woods (like in a 5 piece, I might have hard maple, ziricote, koa as the middle piece, very stiff) ... if you used a true double acting rod, like the Allied one,, simply turn it backwards and put the relief in.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Corky: Some folks will use a flat or almost flat finger board with no relief. Depends on your set up heights of strings and how you play.I wonder if you have a two way rod or one way. You said you adjusted the rod already.If two way adjust the rod to give you the required relief. If one way you may have to be patient and see if the string tension will help you. And of course you know that the rods have to be installed right side up or they will work backwards.If your finger board is flat without string tension you should have lots when you string up or else you have one heck of a strong neck.Lets us know how you make out. Good luck.
Tom

The final test is playability. If you can play really hard up and down the neck, and nothing buzzes, then your action is too high. (Unless it's for someone who does the Freddie Green jazz rhythm thing.) If you take the action down to where it just starts to buzz, does it buzz on all the strings pretty evenly up and down the neck? Okay then, the relief is perfect. If it buzzes some places more than others, then you need a little more relief above those notes. I always sand a little (.003") extra relief into the neck on the bass side. Some playing styles need more. Where that relief is centered varies depending on a lot of variables: classical or steel string? lots of string bending? alternate tunings? On acoustic guitars made with high quality neck wood, you can usually count on the neck to bend in a smooth curve when the strings are tensioned. On many long necked electrics, some bumps and twists can happen. You can try some of the neck tensioning jigs (Teeter, Erlewine), or you can string it up and hope that whatever adjustments you have to make won't lower the frets too much.

Thanks Tony, Thomas, Eric,

A bit more information.... Steel string guitar - 000 sized 24.9, with light strings on it. So far, I've adjusted the nut to close to appropriate height, but saddle still needs adjustment. I'm using the LMI two way truss rod, and I'm certain that it's not upside down , although such a situation is not impossible, given my history. Thanks.

Well then! bob's your uncle. You've got a two way truss rod, so use it:)

That is really a good question. I think you have to get a feel for what your necks do over the long haul. I use two 1/8 x 3/8 carbon bars across the headstock in a solid Mahogany neck and they are so stiff that even with a two way Allied rod I have to be sure I level them with some tension on the rod to get some initial relief without a ton of reverse pressure on the rod.. They don't seem to loosen up as much as I expected over time.
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Relief is essential for low action without fret noises both ahead of and behind the fretting finger. Your goal is a slight, consistent curve. String gauge and tuning and playing style affect relief but less than you'd think.

In the future, tighten the truss rod a bit before leveling the board. That gives you the ability to add or subtract relief while maintaining some tension on the rod (to avoid rod buzzes and frequent adjustments). You can add relief after fretting by straightening or back bowing the neck very slightly, either by clamping it into that position or by rod adjustment, and leveling the frets. You'll take more off the frets in the center of the board and when string tension is applied, the neck will flex enough to give some relief.

And by the way, those carbon fiber rods are stiff but they will creep over time and the truss rod will take up some of the tension.