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 Post subject: Making your own purfling
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:36 pm 
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Cocobolo
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First name: John
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How do you guys make your own purfling? What I'm looking for is do you cut stock into veener sheets, glue together then rip into strips? I realize there's alot of different ways but would like to hear some of them.

THANKS. JOHN


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:47 pm 
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In it's simplest form, that's what we do.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:55 pm 
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I make my rosette perfling by laminating veneer then ripping it on the bandsaw.Here' an example of a perfling around a radial rosette i made last week.The perfling is blackwalnut,sapwood,blackwalnut.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:41 pm 
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Mark Groza wrote:
I make my rosette perfling by laminating veneer then ripping it on the bandsaw.Here' an example of a perfling around a radial rosette i made last week.The perfling is blackwalnut,sapwood,blackwalnut.


What glue did you use to laminate it with?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:33 pm 
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Yeah, what glue would you use if you're going to bend the purfling on a pipe?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:39 pm 
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I use titebond to glue up my purfling strips. It bends well on the iron with a low temp and no water. Get the bending done quickly and you will be fine.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:34 pm 
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Ive used Titebond, Elmer's white glue, LMI White, Fish Glue, and Old Brown Glue. They all work just fine for purflings and marquetry.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:45 pm 
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WaddyThomson wrote:
Ive used Titebond, Elmer's white glue, LMI White, Fish Glue, and Old Brown Glue. They all work just fine for purflings and marquetry.



Waddy left out the spit and chewy gum, but it aint the best, well it will hold ...but not very good at all, in fact, its kinda tacky, actually it really don't work at all. Now flower and water and pack of Jellow work grate. You can eat it too!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 7:00 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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My experience making purfling...

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=26207


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 1:05 pm 
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Haans, that thread was what really got me going on this idea. I really liked the rosette!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 6:39 pm 
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SteveSmith wrote:
Mark Groza wrote:
I make my rosette perfling by laminating veneer then ripping it on the bandsaw.Here' an example of a perfling around a radial rosette i made last week.The perfling is blackwalnut,sapwood,blackwalnut.


What glue did you use to laminate it with?

Titebond is what i used.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:19 pm 
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Sounds like its time to dive in. I've got a size 0 that some custom purfling would work great on, especially after seeing what you guys are doing!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:04 pm 
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How do you get the bandsaw marks out? I tried sanding with a fence and a drill press drum but it sanded the center of the strips a lot more. The strips are 3/4" wide.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:38 pm 
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John, I and many others use Titebond II for laying up purfling. It's the only thing I use Titebond II for. It's a little more flexible and bends well.

I slice the veneer layups with a band saw using a sacrificial board as a pseudo zero clearance insert. Works well. There is no need to get rid of the band saw marks, since they are on the bottom and top of the strip. The bottom is not seen and the top is scraped/sanded smooth after installing the purfling. Any little fuzz on the edges can be knocked off by pulling the purlfing through a folded piece of sandpaper. I buy all my venners. "Certainly Woods" has a wide variety of veneers, although I buy 10 mill black veneer from LMI. They are the only ones that have the thin stuff that I have found. I only use all wood veneer now. No fiber.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:46 pm 
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When I sand purfling to thin it, I use a drill press disk sander. I can sand veneer strips an inch or so wide, down to 0.3 mm, if I'm real careful not to sand very hard. Here is the disk. I used it when I was making wheat purfling.
Attachment:
W042.jpg


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:41 am 
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jncllc wrote:
How do you get the bandsaw marks out? I tried sanding with a fence and a drill press drum but it sanded the center of the strips a lot more. The strips are 3/4" wide.


I use my 16/32 Jet drum. I've sanded down to .015" (with backer board of course), but at .015", you have to hang on at the outfeed side as it starts to buckle going in.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:52 am 
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What Haans said, and multiple passes at the same setting with 120 grit allow to sneak in 1/2 thou at a time. I use a 10/20, but the principle should be the same. Pass your backing board in the sander a few times before, and mark it, in order to cancel any discrepancy in the drum and/or table.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 4:30 pm 
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Here's an idea for purfling on the top and back, especially if it is custom made;
Once you have your veneer sheets, glue them up on the bending form. It seems like all the troubles I have come from the glued up sheets interacting with each other and cracking on the bends. Glueing it all while in the bending form/mold would eliminate that trouble.

I still haven't come up with a good way to get purfling to work in the waist on the sides. It breaks every time and I've tried many different methods to avoid the problem. I'd love to hear of a good system for that.

Dave


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 4:35 pm 
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Duck soup!
Attachment:
P1030278 (Large).JPG


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 5:28 pm 
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Nice soup Waddy.
But I usually like mine to have more wild rice and cream in it.

laughing6-hehe

Dave


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 5:31 pm 
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Yeah, I've always been a "Meat and Potatoes" type! Eat Drink

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:00 am 
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I don't have any photos around but I sometimes laminate my veneers in a wide sandwich using a vacuum bag, external to the mold.

It doesn't need to be exact becase they are somewhat flexible. It is important to use very good technique putting the form into a large bag as I have seen others do because you might get tenting of the bag and not press the veneers tightly toghether at the waiste area. But using an external bag, you will get full pressure in all areas no matter if the sandwich layup is conforming fully in all areas of the form. Hard to describe, but really pretty easy with a small narrow bag. You can use the fox bender as a form.

After the layup os cooked, I slice off thin peices on a simple drill press setup. Chuck in a mini saw wheel and make a rouded fence. Careful with your fingers.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 1:45 am 
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Dave,

Do you mean on the side of the guitar? Have you tried gluing it to the bottom of the binding before you bend it? If that is what you are talking about that does work well even with multiple lines.

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