Okay, folks, I need some opinions. I need to explain what I am doing and why. Please, I am not asking for debates about whether DOING IT is a good idea. Could be "idiotic" and you shouldn't waste good time with advice to that effect. I don't mean to dismiss anyone and hopefully, when I explain, it will make sense. But I am known sometimes for my non-sensical behavior. Medication may help, but I doubt it.
Okay, guys, let's say, theoretically, one had a number of nice quality ukuleles in his possession. (Number? Ummmm, substantial. My wife said "Oh, no!" if that helps explain.)
Next, let's say that these theoretical instruments were essentially perfect EXCEPT that the neck set was bad. (As in the illustration below.) Now, suppose someone wanted to "rescue" these stringed "friends" for educational uses and freebies--for those who cannot buy an ukulele, even an inexpensive factory one. Further, let's say that the unnamed individual (let's call him "Numbskull") has a hair-brained-numbskull idea to do that in a way that would give these (un-useful) instruments a life with those who would like to participate in music, but "got no jack." Without quitting his job or becoming divorced. How's that for a set up?
Alright, so the strings are okay at the nut end, gap wise. However, at the saddle end, the gap from fret-to-strings is excessive, too much to be fixed by lowering the saddle alone. The bridge (made of rosewood) is fairly thick, not excessively so, but enough to give one hope that by reducing the height of the bridge and/or saddle might be a possibility. Now, again, I'm not asking about my favorite "Martin Style5" instrument, but unloved ukes from the "Island of Misfit Toys" whose futures will be otherwise grim.
I butchered one (as a test) and it seemed to work okay, with the instrument maintaining playability, at least as far as tone and action. (Preliminary result...)
So to set up the questions: * The bridge is rosewood and reasonably hard wood. It is attached firmly to the soundboard. Unknown if the bridge could be removed successfully, but not in any efficient way, in any case. The nut is either plastic or bone (depending.) * The nylon strings are tied on the bridge in the typical way. There seems to be enough clearance to redrill the holes for the strings, to increase the break angle to a reasonable angle on the "lowered" bridge. The saddle is not glued, but loose. It is non-compensated, as is the fashion with most ukuleles. So mostly straight and flat, more or less. * I have plenty 'o' tools (sounds like a Irish vaudevillian!) to do the task. I have: 3 flavors of rotary tool, a flex shaft tool, a quality laminate trimmer and routers ranging from 1 3/4hp to 3hp. I have bits of most size and description, largely spanking-new and of good quality (no junk.) I have a table router with fence and t-slot table, tho' I haven't been optimistic that the table will help. It seems more like a free-router job, but I am open to ideas. * I have a Dewalt scroll saw, a table saw, a radial drill press, a miter saw and most power hand tools like sanders, grinders, jig saws. I have a nice selection of hand tools, including fret saws, gent's saw, dozuki and most typical handsaws. I have plenty of layout tools. * I have lots of carving chisels (20-25) and a number of hand planes that I am coming to grips with. Some are "niiiiiice." Some are mid-level, some cheapos that could be sacrificed to a cause like this. * I have a belt/disk sander, 3"&5", and an "ok" jointer and a "good" 13" planer that still has the new car smell. * I have ample materials and supplies for jigs, tooling, phenolic, plex, aluminum, hardwoods, baltic birch ply and a bunch of stuff I have forgotten. I probably have "it." * I possess good hand skills, being an artist first. I also have identical instruments that I can "practice" with, if I need to. I am a new luthier, but have done stuff as "tight-in" as lutherie, but I am still getting my feet under me at present and learning. I have been doing repair lately, to get experience.
Okay, enough lead in, here are the questions: Rosewood is hard. If I were to use a router-like tool to reduce the height of the bridge, which would work best (in your opinon...) Proxxon rotary tool in a plunge base? Rigid laminate trimmer with a rabbet-type bit? A slow attack with the Milwaukee 1.75 or go to town at high speed with the 3 horse monster and a stump cutter? I would hope to end up with as little hand work or "fussy" work as I can. Obviously, less tear out or chip out is better, but a small amount of chipping could be chamfered with a rotary tool, a plane or chisel.
Is there a "saw" approach that would be superior? I have a bandsaw, 12", although I am having problems visualizing how it would work with the whole uke being handled? Other saws are available too, as I said above. I fear a handsaw approach, while controllable, will too quickly hit my "What am I, insane?" button and prevent any further progress. Rosewood is hard! Did I mention that....?
My intuition says "Router plus Jig", but you guys are so good at "jigging" that I would happily accept any ideas or advice that would make this A. Easier, B. Cleaner, C. Better? I have jig parts, t-track and materials and hardware, toggle clamps, blah blah blah. If I don't have it, I'll probably get it. With (mumble-mumble) number of these to do, minutes will count. Prep will pay back handsomely in time savings.
If I forgot obvious details (likely) please point out my omissions and I will add the info. Photos are available, but for reasons I can't specify, I did the illustration below instead of just simply snapping a photo (if that explains where I am on it.) I hope you don't mind my "obtuse" answers, but it is necessary.
Thank you for any info you can contribute to this hair-brained endeavor.
Signed "Numbskull."
aka--Mark Lewis
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_________________ Mark W. Lewis -------------------------- I'm tired of followin' my dreams. I think I'll just ask 'em where they are going and hook-up with 'em later - Mitch Hedberg
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