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I'm getting more fussy about the moisture content of the wood I use. Does anyone use a moisture meter? If so, which one? I'm looking the Lignomat S/D which provides dual depth capability. not cheap. thanks
Jay

Most moisture meters (all that I know about) only work on wood that's 3/4" or thicker.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
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There was a review of moisture meters in one of the recent woodworking mags. Fine Woodworking, I think. Might be worth looking up. It seems that a few of them were OK for thinner woods.

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Waddy

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I have a moisture metre but rarely use it. Although some metres will work down to 1/4" thick most won't (See current Fine Woodworking). For our thin woods, just placing them within the controlled confines of our shops and storing them there is all you need. And still the most accurate measure of moisture (relative to your environment) is time and weight. Once there is no weight change the wood has reached equilibrium with your shop.

Shane

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Canada

I use the Timber Check, purchased years ago from Lee Valley. Since I slice up a fair amount of Wet Cedar, I find it very useful. To get an "accurate" reading, you need to probe the centre of the board & the board should be (IIRC) 3/4" thick. We're not likely to ever stick two large pins in the middle of a guitar top blank & they are only 3/16" thick or so.
Still, I get useful measurements by probing the ends of the tops while they are in the dryer.
At the very least, I know when the MC stops falling.
This meter doesn't work as well on thin hardwood pieces.
I also change the airflow over the stacks depending on the readings I get.
If you are buying processed tonewood from reputable suppliers, You really shouldn't need to check the MC. The wood should be down to ten to twelve percent if the wood was air dried.
If it came from a dryer climate than mine, it may be much lower.
A couple of months (or less) stickered in your shop should be enough to get the wood down to the six - eight percent you want before building with it. This is assuming you are stickering your wood in a humidity controlled space. (I keep my building room at 42 - 48% RH)
My experience is mainly with softwood. Most of the hardwood I have purchased arrived well dried & needed only a few weeks in the shop before it was ready to use.
Sit a back set on your bench for a couple of days... If it doesn't cup or twist, it's probably pretty close to dry enough. Sticker it for a few more weeks & then go for it.

Thanks for your responses. I've been building for 30+ years and never had a serious issue with humidity or moisture. I have heat and a de-humidifier so can strike a pretty good balance. I sticker all my wood. Saw the Fine Woodworking artlcle and it got me thinking. I often buy billets and have them re-sawed. I've decided to save the $175+ dollars and stick with my current practices. Stickering, humidity control and time... thanks

I mill alot of my own wood which is air dried, so i always check with a meter before resawing billets.I like it to be in the 10% range before i resaw to keep cupping and bowing to a minimum.But once in the shop, it dries real fast being thin and stickered for a year, so i really don't have to check it at that point.