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The wood clamps that are used so often by so many luthiers, does anyone have a homemade plan for constructing these cheaply?
Thanks,
Kevin

Hey, Kevin,
Check out this plan and instruction text:

http://www.woodworkstuff.net/HoweClamp.html

Cphanna, great link, thanks!
I am thinking I will take a shot at making some of these for myself. The only thing I am unsure about is cutting the mortise that the steel bar sits in, the only way I can see doing it is roughing it out on the drill press then chiseling the rest out?

Make them in two pieces with slots on each side then glue together.

Thanks. These post replies answered my question.
Kevin, TN

There have been several times that I've set up just to make cam clamps in the past. I would
make 1000 or so at a time and then sell them to the students of my building classes at less
than half of the price that most vendors offer them at. They're easy to make in great quality
and the whole process is quicker than you'd expect. I'd make 1000 in just a few days using
dedicated jigs, fixtures and cutters.

I keep about 250 of them in my shop in various depths and lengths and they are a mainstay
for a myriad of clamping situations. I think the feature that makes them so well suited to lutherie
is their speed of use. That and the fact that you can actually apply them to clamp with one hand.

Regards,
Kevin Gallagher/Omega Guitars

Wow Kevin , That seems like a whole lot of clamps ! You'll have no shortage anyways

I too love these things and find them incredibly useful for all sorts of tasks.In fact , I'm not sure how I'd get by without them. I agree with Todd in that a go bar deck is useful also , but there are some operations which ( for me ) demand cam clamps .
I made a set of clamps ( about a dozen ) a number of years ago from Tasmanian Myrtle . It's important to use a fairly strong wood which hopefully isn't too heavy . I have since had to buy some more as I found a dozen wasn't enough . The ones I bought have a steel bar which makes them way too heavy and defeats their purpose a little. Their cams also slipped ( a tiny amount of violin resin helps here ) .
These ones I made ( pictured below) have aluminium bars and are far superior.
I made the slots with a morticing attachment on my drill press. .You'll notice I also made a jumbo model with a long bar .It tends to be in use most of the time

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CRAIG LAWRENCE of AUSTRALIA
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I wouldn't mind seeing some of those jigs Kevin. Not that I ever plan to make them in huge quantity, but hey, you never know

For the ones I've made, I cut the slots for the bar with the tablesaw and then glue in a filler piece. Way easier than cutting a mortise. I've done that too.

Craig, what morticing attachment do you use? I hear they are a pain?

If you have too many....send some to me.
Kent

_________________
Wood Creations by Kent A. Bailey
EXCELLENCE IN SCULPTURE, CARVING, LUTHIER, ARCHITECTURAL MILLWORK AND DESIGN

http://www.kabart.com

Kevin G. I may have missed it, but what type of wood do (did) you use to make these as well, what kind of metal for the bars?

Kevin, TN

I can't seem to have enough but about 20 work ok, but like various sizes. I would have them before go bar rig. Maybe more money, but for me less hassle and more uses. I don't have a go bar deck and guess reason say that. Used to, but just takes up space and never used.

My mortise Attachment to the drillpress is fairly sturdy , but relies on the drill press also being sturdy and having the table at a perfect 90 degree . I made a jig to firmly hold the work piece on the table also. The mortise chisels must be razor sharp ! Worked great for these clamps .
Tasmanian Myrtle worked out very well for me. It belongs to the European Beech family. The ones I bought are Beech , but there would be other woods just as suitable . Strong and a reasonably lightweight is preferable. Maple ?

I strongly advise the use of Aluminium bars . Mine are 1 inch by 1/4 ". Very strong and lightweight. As I said earlier ,the steel ones are just too heavy and defeat the purpose of having a long reach clamp of low weight.

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CRAIG LAWRENCE of AUSTRALIA
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I cheated on mine & cut an open mortis, cut on the tablesaw. (actually a deep dado) I chopped a plank to the length I wanted, dadoed the end grain, then sawed out four clamp beams from each plank. Works slick, if you don't have a good drill press & a mortising bit.
If you epoxy & pin the closing block in, the joint is pretty much bulletproof.
Also... If you are using wood which is at all brittle, make the spring beam (or whatever it's called) quite thin. It's less likely to break. A nice big relief hole at the end of the spring beam helps prevent splitting too.
Making clamps is fun & saves lots of money! I have about 30 of them & use 'em all the time. Enjoy...

On the last set that I made, I cut my slots on the table saw, and didn't even bother to glue in a filler piece. The metal pins really do the work--if they are positioned properly. I'll admit that none of my clamps would ever be mistaken for elegant tools, but they work. For me, that's all that matters.