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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 12:29 am 
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Koa
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First name: Heath
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City: Visalia
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i know the simple answer to this is to use bias tape instead of braces, but i really like the look of braces, even if it doesnt add anything structurally. i use 1/2" wide by about .060" thick braces that extend the full length of the side all the way under the linings. my current method is to install the side braces and then run a piece of tape along the length of the side, marking the width of each brace on the tape. i then transfer the tape to the lining and cut a notch for each brace using a little jig i made for use with a laminate trimmer.

well, this doesnt work and the notches end up all over the place once i bend the linings and go to install them in place on the sides. i think its because the inside length of the lining changes along the distance of the side as the kerfs open or close to make the radius of the side. if that makes sense.

so for those of you that install full length side braces, how do you measure the distance to get the notches in the right place? thanks in advance.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:28 am 
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Heath,

I just put the linings in place and mark the braces, just like you would do to mark the top and back braces to let them into the sides.

Steve


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:47 am 
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I use bias tape now, but I use to use 1/4" by 1/4" braces I installed before the linings. I think you can see what I'm talking about in this picture.
Image

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 10:00 am 
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Heath,

I do mine a little differently but it does solve the problem of loose fits at the upright braces. I did a tutorial a while back, here it is:

viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=21455

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 10:52 am 
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I didnt notch my linings for the side braces, I made the braces about the width of two lining sections , layed out on the sides where I wanted the braces, glued the braces even with the tops of the rims , ran the linings up to the braces , then stacked the lining blocks over the rim braces,I then trimmed the linings where they protruded past the ones not stacked on the braces . Jody


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 11:44 am 
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I do exactly as Woody B shows in the picture. My side braces might smaller though, but the concept is the same.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:46 pm 
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I notch the linings about 1/8-3/16" into the top and bottom linings. My braces are about 1/4" x 1/8". I use reverse kerfed linings,
so I just cut away the linings up to the beginning of the non-kerfed area.

Image

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:17 pm 
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Probably the easiest way is to determine the approximate locations of your side braces, then cut lengths of your lining material up to the location of a side brace. Stop installing linings. Then install the side brace. Then continue with the linings, above and below, until you get to the next side brace location. Repeat the process, around the entire instrument. When you're finished, cut individual pieces of lining and glue them to the side braces. They will be a little "proud" of the rest of the lining. By that, I mean they will be wider than the other lining by the thickness of the side braces. Then take a sharp chisel and pare them down until they are the same width at the rest of your lining. This is commonly done, and is perhaps not as elegant as cutting inlets for the side braces, but it is just as effective. And it will be much less work. In the end, it all depends on how much elegance you are willing to sacrifice for the sake of efficiency.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:38 pm 
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cphanna wrote:
Probably the easiest way is to determine the approximate locations of your side braces, then cut lengths of your lining material up to the location of a side brace. Stop installing linings. Then install the side brace. Then continue with the linings, above and below, until you get to the next side brace location. Repeat the process, around the entire instrument. When you're finished, cut individual pieces of lining and glue them to the side braces. They will be a little "proud" of the rest of the lining. By that, I mean they will be wider than the other lining by the thickness of the side braces. Then take a sharp chisel and pare them down until they are the same width at the rest of your lining. This is commonly done, and is perhaps not as elegant as cutting inlets for the side braces, but it is just as effective. And it will be much less work. In the end, it all depends on how much elegance you are willing to sacrifice for the sake of efficiency.


That's how I learned to do it from the Benedetto book.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 11:11 pm 
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Koa
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First name: Heath
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City: Visalia
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thanks everyone for the replies. interesting to see the different takes on side braces.

StevenWheeler wrote:
Heath,

I just put the linings in place and mark the braces, just like you would do to mark the top and back braces to let them into the sides.

Steve


thats exactly what i want to do. i do use reverse kerf linings and i pre bend in a fox bender because i dont seem to get any breakage when installing the linings that way. if i mark the brace locations on the linings before i bend, i get whacked out spacings after i bend. if i bend first, then i dont have an efficient way of cutting the notches in the linings after they are bent. maybe ill adapt a jig like what burton showed.

Burton LeGeyt wrote:
Heath,

I do mine a little differently but it does solve the problem of loose fits at the upright braces. I did a tutorial a while back, here it is:

viewtopic.php?f=10117&t=21455


thanks for that burton. i dont use solid linings or double sides, but there are definitely some methods in there i can adapt.

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