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Hi guys, you weren't so keen on my idea of getting a planer thicknesser, how about a bandsaw upgrade here's one I like trouble is my workshop if in the loft/attic, so I'm limited to what will go through the hatch, I've not found overall dimensions for this one, but here's one I like best so far 9" depth of cut and 2hp motor

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/machinery-&-a ... ty-bandsaw

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Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

That is a slick machine.
The site also has some neat toys that I could use in my shop like the blade welder/brazer.

Hey, John-
Have you checked on the joist depth in that attic floor?
All those tools up there could end up downstairs!

Cheers
John

Very VERY good point on those floor joists. Cannot remember the standards here, but 2x10 or 2x12 is the norm. If you have 2x8 or 2x6 (normal for attics) then you MUST scab in boards of the right dimension. Good time to add some excellent sound dampener too. Also, beam spacing may not be up to code for actual flooring. I assume you are in the UK? Your standards may be different. But do have an architect look at your floor. Another problem is load bearing walls may not be below the attic in the right locations. This can be overcome, but think twice before putting heavy machinery (with small footprints) up there.

As for the saw, nice... but kind of expensive, huh? That would be close to 800 USD here.

As for that blade "welder", I do not get it. How can you solder a blade together? It must be welded.

Mike

Mike:
Blade repairs are sometimes done with silver solder/braze.

Bob

Mike as to the floor/ceiling joists I think I'm safe whoever made the little room up there doubled up, so I've got the standard 2"x6" joists with another set at 90 degrees to the first, it's the hatch size and how to lift a 2cwt lump up there more than any thing else that stops me. Also I've noticed that the blade size is not standard in most of my catalogues, which may be an issue.

_________________
Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

John, how big is the room? Including ceiling height?

Standard blade size should not be a problem... most get their blades custom made. Makers have the blade material on a big coil and just roll off the amount needed and weld the ends.

Mike

John-
I don't know how you are fixed for wrenches and sockets and the like, but most power tools can be dis-assembled into more-manageable pieces fairly easily.
You might consider rigging a strong point in the ceiling rafters above your hatch so that you can hoist (and lower when you move) items up. If you have any sailing friends, they will have lots of advice (and gear) on block/tackle setups. (Do you call them 'come-alongs' in the UK?) Working alone, I lifted the diesel for my sailboat (300#) up about 10 ft and then lowered it into the boat, when I was building it, so it is certainly possible. You do want to be very careful with this.

Another possibility if you have any other sheltered space available is to put the bandsaw (and planer??and sander??) somewhere else (back of garage??) and 'commute' back and forth. It's what I do- and the trotting back and forth substitutes for other 'fitness workouts', in part!

Cheers
John

It is best if you bevel the blade at it's ends when soldering. If it breaks again, it surely will not be where you soldered it. The hardest part is to get the blade well aligned.

Sorry for the OT-pictures:


Two more pictures: soldered and cleaned up

This axminster saw may also fit though it only takes up to 3/4" blades is this a big disadvantage?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axmi ... 804523.htm

_________________
Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

Hi John
3/4" blades would be more than enough for resawing guitar tops and backs. 5/8" would also do it
But anyway I have no idea how this (or any) axminster is.

I use a 1/2" Timberwolf on my 17" saw. Works well for me.