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How do you guys do your neck block extentions? What I mean is where the popcicle brace is omited and how thick is it?

I had a photo/write up posted a long time ago but I don't find it in the Tutorial section nor in the Archives. It may have been lost in one of the server platform/programming changes in the past. You might PM Lance K. and ask if he can find it or where it might be hiding in the current OLF iteration.

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Hank Mauel

Bump

My hot topic question also.

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Wisdom is justified by her children

Well guys, if Lance K. can't find my old photo/write up in the bowels of OLF, let me know and I'll take some new photos and post it for you.

You can see a modified form of the neck block/tongue in my photos in the current "work board" thread here:
viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=24809

This one was modified to accept a "Voyage Air" folding neck system so it is a bit different from normal, but you get the idea.

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Hank Mauel

Thanks Hank, Looking forward to a writeup.

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Wisdom is justified by her children

Michael, thanks for the drawing. It's a big help. What truss rod are you using that won't break through the bottom of the 3/8" thick extension?

I use Allied's two way but my adjustment is at the peghead Much simpler to use at the peghead especially during setup adjustments

You're missing the thickness dimension on the primary block I know this might not be an issue for some, but for others it will be.

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Good catch Rod

Thx

I use to be a mechanical draftsman so I'm use to checking drawings and correcting my own mistakes/omissions.

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

rod you know my drafting background but I will be the first to say proofing your own drawing can be like a lawer representing him self in court. If you get my drift

Oh, I didn't mean proofing my own drawings, I meant proofing other's drawings, and having to correct my own from others proofing

But I do get your drift

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

I didn not take what you said it that way at all Rod. i was poking fun at my self

Here at my day job we went through a major lay off that cut our engineering and drafting staff by 2/3rds. It was suggested that each of use would be responsible for checking our own work because we just did not have the staff to do checking and approval anymore. I stood on my soap box and complained that this would eventually lead to a major error reaching the shop floor or worst put product out with a major flaw.

Well I was over ridden until a $11k rework error hit. Now we are back to a three party checking process.

Ouch! Errrrr.....it was R&D......ya.......that's it.......

OK, back to our regularly scheduled programing LOL!

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

My neck block and extension are a little different, the extension on the top of the block is 18mm thick but is then routed out to take the tenon of the neck extension to which the fingerboard is glued. The neck is attached to the block just with the two normal bolts, I find it unnecessary to bolt this extension down. I've used this system on a couple of dozen or so guitars with never a problem.

Here's the block, as you can see it also has a 'Spanish heel'.



The extension is also inletted for the A braces. (The rims are just rsting on the top here for marking the brace positions on the linings. The UTB and top arms of the X are inletted, the lower X arms are shaved down to the linings.)



The neck extension is a continuation of the neck wood, not a separate piece of wood.



And a pocket is routed into the top and neck block extension for the neck extension.



And the neck fits into the pocket.



Colin

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Colin, thanks for sharing. Is the fretboard unsupported and unglued between the end of the neck extension and the soundhole?

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Colin,

Is that a 12 fret body?

I am just putting together materials for a 000-12fret and was thinking of taking my neck block in this direction. Anyone have any idea if using the extension with a dovetailed neck joint on a 12 fret is advantageous? Would I be adding an extraordinary amount of weight to the box?

Sorry if I'm hijacking this.

Tim

I use it on my 12 fretters all the time without any problem. The tongue (extension) is directly under the fingerboard extension (only 1/8th inch wider on each side of the FB at its end). You are not in a "tone generating" area of the top, what with the FB glued down and any minor weight gain is pretty well centered on the guitar, mid way from headstock to end pin.
The minor extra width supports the top beyond the sides of the FB to reduce the cracking potential in this area...formerly done by the "popsicle" brace...yet leaves the upper bout area free to contribute "something" (probably in the real high upper registers) to the overall sound.

I've been using this extension head block system since last century...my that sounds long ago...with no troubles to date.

Give it a try...you'll never know until you build with it.

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Hank Mauel

Yes It's a 12 fret guitar, but I use it on all of my steel string guitars, 14 fretters as well. The fingerboard is only glued to the neck, not the top so the neck can be removed by just undoing the two bolts. It's never made sense to me that you bolt the neck on, then glue the FB down!

Like Hank I've been doing this since the last century, in fact since my second guitar, I think this allows more contribution from the upper bout and with my A frame firmly inlet into both the neck block and the X brace and passing freely though the open UTB (classical style), I feel I'm getting much more contribution from neck harmonics as well, remember the strings are attached to the neck at one end.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Hey Colin, I like how that system looks, but it looks like the truss rod adjustment nut gets buried in the neck block extension mortise. How do you provide access to the truss rod nut?

Peace,
Sanaka

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Just drill a hole through, as here. (This is one of Hank Mauel's superb Redwood tops, unfinished as I finish the top after the bridge is on and final top tuning with the strings)

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

John, I use spruce that's 3/8" thick. I route a groove in it for access to adjust the truss rod. It's fits tight between the neck block and UTB. I make the sides angled a little so it doesn't line up with a single grain line of the top. I install mine after the top is glued to the rims. If you adjust your truss rod from the sound hole make sure the slot allows adequate access before you install the neck. (don't ask me how I know)

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Thanks Colin!

Peace,
Sanaka

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...imagine there were no hypothetical situations...

Colin,
Thanks for posting the extra info and pictures

Hank,
I'm on my way to the tutorial page to see your new post on this. You're right I won't know until I try it and that is the fun part. Thanks

Tim