Official Luthiers Forum!

So I sold my bandsaw a while back and looking to get back into building...just a hobby. so rather than invest in a lot of power tools, i am looking and some nice hand tool options. I have all the handplanes I need but looking for something to cut the top, back and sides to shape. What saws do you recommend for this (and where do you recommend I get them)? I know i can count on the experts here

ctting radial shapes with a hand saw is tough work.

Thats what I figured..ugh Any recommendations to make it a bit easier? And dont say band saw!

A good coping saw can do a pretty good job. I have a small little Japanese saw that I bought at Harbor Freight (actually made in Japan, not China), that has been handy as can be for the $9 or $10 it cost. This is just for cutting the guitar parts to size and or shape, not resawing correct?

Darrin

Jigsaw? A right useful tool for many household fixit type things as well...

Peace,
Sanaka

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...imagine there were no hypothetical situations...

I'd be lost without my Japanese saws The one I use the most is the small Kataba (hard spined) made by Z-saw. When new the blades are scary fast and precise and they can easily last you about 2 guitars. A replacement blade is about 12$ so I think it is reasonable. The teeth are impulse hardedned so it is impossible to resharpen. This one also works well as a fret saw although it is a hair tighter than the LMI fret saw. Compared to that one, I think the Japanese one cuts some 5 times faster.

I also have a flexible flushcut saw and a large Ryoba (no spine, two rows of teeth one crosscut one rupcut) for hacking large stuff. A large Ryoba saw can be used for resawing, with the appropiate guide jig (or a human helper pressing the blade against depth stops). I managed to slice 0.04" veneers from a figured FB board no sweat. A bit slow but it works.

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training termites

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
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You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

LOL So you knew what I was thinking? HUMMMMMMMM The coping saw was mentioned. I also use a radial bladed veneer saw to rough-in some curved shapes and for cutting profiles in to sides before but really a deep throat coping saw is a very good choice

Coping saw but use the fine or extra fine (32 TPI) blades. The general purpose blades usually shipped with a coping saw are too rough and will lead to splintering. especially when cutting across grain.

You can get some good deals on large mouth coping saws on ebay, there is also the 'old fashioned' bandsaw, a bow saw. Ok, googled and this came up on a guitar site, go figure!!!! You can get a japonese blade for a bow saw??? Wow.

http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/la ... tools3.htm

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Here is what a Parlor Guitar is for!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEa8PkjO6_I

Highland Hardware carries Japanese blades for their bow saws.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/narrowturbo-cutbladeforclassic400framesaw.aspx

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Aoibeann

For cutting out the top and back a coping saw works just fine, assuming a bit of patience. As
mentioned above a fine-tooth blade is important with these thin materials, although you can
stack the plates and do both at once, lessening the need for a finer blade. The German coping
saws and blades available from Lee Valley and others work well. A little paraffin on the blade
(repeat as necessary), round the back of the blade a bit with a stone et c to help with the
tighter curves, and you're set.

As for Japanese saws (I love 'em) that's a minefield, making recommendations, but the Gyokucho
machine-made saws are very consistent and available in a nice variety of types: Dozuki, Ryoba, Kataba. Very good bang for the buck. Takumi (available from Amazon, of all places) are a nice step up in feel, though anything the latter can do, the former can as well. btw the
rip teeth on any of these saws *can* be resharpened with a file; only the crosscut side is
impulse hardened. My favorite value in J-saws is the 180mm Mitsukawa Ryoba, available from Hida Tool. Very narrow kerf on both cross (.016"?) and rip, and a lot stiffer plate than the brands
mentioned above, lending more feel to the cut. Excellent saw for $80, especially if the fine-
handsawing fetish strikes you (it can happen!).
For resawing the Gyokucho 270-300mm Ryobas work ok, though I wish someone made
a decent Tatebiki in this size- the 'Z' 300mm, the only machine J-ripsaw, is a poor tool, imo.

Crank operated band saw. You can have the kids or wife crank it while you cut. This way you can feel good about doing it all by hand

If you want to go electric, a cheap "scroll saw" (they were called jig saws when I was a kid) will do a lot of work for a small price. I've seen 'em on sale for well under a hundred bucks.
They are great for all kinds of hobby work & are a lot quicker & more versatile than a coping saw. (You'll still need a coping or jeweller's saw though.)

Oops. Hit it twice.

How great is that! Call me old school but if i could find one of them, it would be mine!

I have also seen a treadle operated bandsaw where the guy treadles while cutting. Now i don't know if i would have the ability to work the treadle with one leg while balancing on the other and cutting at the same time. I give the old timers a lot of credit for what they did with limited means.

Yep, talk about mouth watering TAS!!!
That bandsaw is a beauty, just the thing to keep the wifey in shape.

Joe

ps--it's probably clear to you, she never reads these posts!

I use a scroll saw for most my cutting even though i have a 14" bandsaw which i mostly use for resawing.I do put a fine blade on it first which is alot easier than changing the bandsaw blade, so i use the scroll saw. Now, if i could only find a 4tpi hook blade for my scroll saw, i could sell my band saw too.