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I was wondering what are the best traditional tools for routing the channels in which to insert inlay in backs, or hardwood/CF in necks.

For the necks, a plow plane is great, although very pricey. Not sure the investment is justified only for neck routing. Maybe a cheaper chisel-plane can work fine while riding against a stout straight edge.

For the back strip, I have found this interesting purfling cutter. Two adjustment screws, double layered steel. I guess it can work pretty well riding against a straight edge and the channel cleared with a chisel.

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Hi Alaxandru, I have no idea if that tool will work as you hope, but instead of routing for the backstrip I would bypass the problem by gluing the purfling between the plates. I can verify that a plow plane works fine for cutting a truss rod slot, I use a vintage Stanley #45. You can sometimes get them inexpesively on eBay if they are missing parts thar are important to collectors, just make sure everything that makes it operational is included.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

I actually just did a back using the "in between" method, but for inserting delicate mosaic inlay I thought it would be good to have an option.

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I think the usual method is to use a scratch tool, basically a narrow chisel placed against a straight edge and used in a scraping fashion. No need to knife mark. That's the method that I've been using for a long time. I usually put it in at a depth of around 0.7 mm and plane the decorative strip to just above that figure. That helps the strip follow any variations in the depth of the channel. If you want a very even and flat bottomed channel you should be able to use the scratch method incorporated into something like the Stanley 271 mini router. I haven't found that necessary though.

Michael, I will give that a try. I like simple methods best.

Todd, so the plow planes work well without the fences too, just riding against a straight edge?

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Marian I did that with router (it's wery simple) but on two back I have problem if you leave the back unglued for couple day's then it start to carving around channel.

Fric, I know it's easy witha router but I prefer to use handtools only. My ideea of fun

Todd, I was asking for the back - the rails are just a few inches long so initially I didn't see how it can work on a wide piece. Perhaps the fence can ride on the outer edge of the straight edge, if the blade extends long enough?

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You could also make your own plow plane. I made one that I use for the truss rod slot. It rides along a straight edge to start the slot - for a back strip I'd suggest scoring the sides of the slot first to make sure you get a crisp line. The plane is pretty ugly but works really well - well enough that I have no desire to break out the router for cutting a truss rod channel. Uses a chisel as the iron.

Hi John,

I like your router plane, and am thinking of making one myself.

Does the central 'tenon' that rides in the slot adjust in and out so as to provide a plane sole for the iron, or does just the chisel iron extend?

thanks,

Stefan

The central tendon doesn't adjust at all. The plane is just made up like a typical kernov style plane except the sole isn't flush with the sides. The sides are extra thick only because it makes it more comfortable to hold. Secure the chisel with a wedge, tap with a hammer to set it and go. It actually goes pretty fast to do a truss rod slot (I timed it at under 5 minutes including setup not rushing in any way). Since nobody is ever going to critique the bottom of the truss rod slot for minor tear-out, you don't need to worry about making this thing with a tight mouth and you can set it for a pretty thick cut - some of the shavings the last time I did one were about 0.035 thick. Since it is only 1/4 wide, it is still pretty easy to push even with a thick shaving. I usaully don't set it for a really fine cut (like you would want to if you are doing a back strip) but there is no reason why you couldn't.

Alexandru, I would have to put a vote in for the small Lie-Nielsen router plane with a 1/4" or 3/16" straight blade. It's a great tool that can be used for many tasks while building. I too build with only hand tools and find the process just as rewarding as the finished instrument. Good luck

Hi Marian
I have one that tool and I have different blade for that tools (triangle , oval ,...)
but after I find router I dont use it at all
regards