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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:22 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Jacksonville Florida
First name: Chris
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Today I was lucky enough to strip out either the tensioner nut and/or the tensioner rod. The tensioner nut is the one located INSIDE the upper wheel axle housing that holds the tensioner spring in place. If you must know - I was tensioning a new 3/8th's carbide tipped blade from Louis Iturra.

Soooooo....now what? The whole assembly is 'stuck' assembled cuz I can't rotate the rod and back the nut out.

gaah gaah

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:24 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Canada
If you can somhow back the rod out completely, the nut & spring will drop out the bottom. Replace the nut, rethread on the rod & place a "spacer" between the point of the rod & the casting (so you're now using a section of the rod where the threads are still ok). Had to do this with mine.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:36 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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you can get the part from your manufacturer

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:50 pm 
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Koa
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I suspect I'm going to have to cut it out. I took the whole tension assembly off the saw and chucked it into my bench. Locked some vice grips onto the tensioner rod...it won't turn. The nut has actually started to deform the tension assembly housing so I'm not pushing it any further. IF I do end up cutting it out I'm going to replace it with the Spinner 4 tension adjuster from Iturra. It comes with the larger bronze tension nut so this won't happen again.

FWIW - This would not have been an issue had I stuck with running your run of the mill carbon steel blades and bi-metal blades. The bands are thinner and require less tension to run well on a tuned 14 inch saw. As soon as you switch to the thicker bands (so you can make use of carbide tips) the tension requirement skyrockets as well as the saws sudden ultra sensitivity to setup. I will say, however, that the blade outperforms ANYTHING I've ever put on this saw. The cuts, in terms of smoothness and finish, were without equal....period.

Chris

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 7:45 am 
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I am surprised Louis Iturra did not warn you about that. Did you tell him about your setup when you ordered the blade?

Mike


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:38 am 
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Koa
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He didn't explicitly warn me against this particular issue but I also did not say this was my first attempt at running carbide blades on my saw. It was a quick conversation because I was in a hurry.

I'll upgrade this portion of the saw and be in good shape I'm sure.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 1:41 pm 
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Koa
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I did the same thing. I ended up cracking the housing and having to replace it in the process of trying to take it apart.. The new rod I gooped up with never seez to try to prevent it from happening again.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 3:29 pm 
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Koa
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Ordered some stuff from Iturra today. Mainly because I don't intend to go back to using carbon steel or bi-metal blades. Didn't want to run the risk of stripping out more factory stuff. I'll get this thing back up and running and then I'll probably sell it. Move up the ladder a couple notches.

Thanks for the input yall!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:40 pm 
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Koa
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Todd - that's a FANTASTIC suggestion. I have the room. I'll just keep it for the smaller work. Thanks.
bliss

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:34 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I would love to have a 14" cast iron saw! But I have to admit I am confused. I thought you said your blade was "carbide tipped" as opposed to all carbide. Most sellers will tell you that 18" is the min diameter for a carbide blade. This must be just "carbide tipped" as I cannot imagine Iturra would sell a 14" carbide blade.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:26 am 
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Koa
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It's a carbide tipped blade. He has the 3/8th's blade on sale now. 3/4 tooth configuration. Best blade I've every owned...and I've probably been through every brand of carbon steel and bi-metal ATLEAST 10 times.

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