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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 1:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:28 pm
Posts: 383
First name: William
Last Name: Snyder
City: Brooklyn
State: NY
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
So I just picked up a Jet 16-32 off of craigslist (great deal). I recall reading some recommendations a while back about converting to hook and loop, benefits being ease of changing paper, less heat buildup and subsequent less clogging of paper. Before I do this I just wanted to ask if there are any drawbacks to the conversion. Relearning how to use the machine won't be an issue because I've never used one in the first place (done all my thicknessing with hand planes to this point). So I'm sure there will be a learning curve whether I convert or leave as is.
Thanks,
William


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:52 am
Posts: 4524
First name: Big
Last Name: Jim
State: Deep in the heart of Bluegrass
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I am sandpaper dealer and all i can tell u is the hook and loop is harder to come by at reasonable prices "you are paying for the hook part on the paper" and it will wear out just as fast. Possibly faster because some companies use thinner paper to begin with .
It does however stay in place better

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 4:34 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
The only reall drawback I have found after 3 years is there is a tad bit of cousioning affect that can lead to uneven cuts but this is only an issue if you are taking heavy cuts. I only metion this at all because it is the only drawback I ever found ;)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 5:01 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Oct 21, 2006 7:07 am
Posts: 280
Location: United States
Unless it would result in significantly longer sandpaper life, I cannot see any advantage in making the conversion. Changing paper on the 16-32 is usually very quick, at least for me. Cutting the strip to size is the time consuming part. You can buy pre-cut rolls,and rolls that have printed cutting marks , but they are almost 3 times the cost of standard 58 foot rolls. I suspect H&L rolls would be quite pricey, and would take the same amount of time to cut.
If you are new to this tool, two bits of advice. First, you need good dust collection. Second, recognize it's limitations. You have to go very slow in thicknessing most all hardwoods- sometimes as little as 1/4 turn will cause it to bog down and pop the thermal breaker, which is frustrating. These things are capable but very finicky.
Good luck!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 5:30 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:04 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Bossier City Louisiana
First name: René
City: Bossier City
State: Louisiana
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I am only expierenced with H&L on a Woodmaster drum sander so I can't really compare but I would like to say that changing the paper is easy. However, if you take too large a cut and overheat the velcro carrier( the part that adheres to the drum and recieves the paper), it WILL melt because it is plastic and that is a booger to replace. It sticks very, very, well and it took a lot of spraying glue remover, scraping, and tugging to get it off.
I suspect it might be the same way on a performax.

Rene


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:51 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2008 6:51 pm
Posts: 488
Would H&L leave a smoother, more consistent scratch depth with fewer random deep scratches? I'd like to reduce some of the cleanup effort in hand sanding.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:59 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:51 am
Posts: 3786
Location: Canada
I use H&L klingspor stearated paper form Stockroom Supply in Canada .. I dont have a H&L drum though - I did but took it off .. I actually found it hard sometimes to get the paper aligned right as it wrapped around .. I now have it covered it in engine gasket material, and have a countersunk screw lock clamp at one end , and use a band clamp at the other.

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