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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:12 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2009 7:49 pm
Posts: 12
First name: kev
City: Conroe
State: Texas
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hope this is in the proper sub-forum.
My Lowden S10 has acquired a scratch in a relatively inconspicuous spot (to others) on the back of the neck. It's near the heel on the top side of the neck in the curve of the heel. It's in plain view when I play & it will not stop staring at me, like the Geico money bundle. George said that, when my guitar was made, they used an "acid catylised laquer".

What are my options to repair this scratch?
Can I do a spot/local repair?
Does "acid catylised laquer" have another name?

The scratch doesn't reach the wood, or at least it didn't scratch the wood visibly. The scratch is maybe 1/32" wide & 1" long. The finish on the neck is glossy. BTW I'm pretty handy, so I am willing to try & fix it myself, barring refinishing the whole neck.
Thanks,
kev
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 12:04 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:42 am
Posts: 1583
Location: United States
I do not have the skill, but I have had very bad finish damage on a guitar made invisible by a skilled french polisher. Others can chime in, but I think that there is zero risk to try this, because the french polish does not actually penetrate the varnish that you already have on the guitar.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 2:20 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2009 7:49 pm
Posts: 12
First name: kev
City: Conroe
State: Texas
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Todd Stock wrote:
A scratch that is shallower than the finish can be sanded and buffed out. If you are uncertain about the depth of the scratch, might want to leave it alone. As to the Geico money bundle? Just tear the eyes off and spend the money...guilt-free fun.

The scratch appears to be deep & wide enough that I think some finish restoration is necessary. It's the combination of depth & width that makes me think that. I will look at it again. Right now I have a few coats of paste wax on/in it to help fill & protect the area. I was hoping that the paste wax would fill the scratch & make it disappear, but it didn't. I need to clean out the wax & make a close assessment of the situation, but I would like to know, should I choose to repair it, what the process is for this laquer finish.
Thanks,
kev


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 2:52 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2009 7:49 pm
Posts: 12
First name: kev
City: Conroe
State: Texas
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
After researching this a bit, I have some more questions. As I understand, catalyzed lacquers that have fully cured will not "flow" if another coat of a Pre-catalyzed lacquer is reapplied. Is that correct? Will I have to apply enough product to fill the scratch & then sand & buff it to match the finish? Is there a solvent that will make the factory finish flow & blend out the scratch, or is this a risky method? I am looking at products from Mohawk, maybe aerosol? Or should I apply it with a brush in the scratch alone & then sand it smooth? I'm a real noobe at finishing, but I need to learn some of this stuff for when my 1st build needs a coat.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 5:13 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:42 am
Posts: 1583
Location: United States
Some of your questions are best directed to the builder/factory. Many of them have procedures to make such fixes, because they are not going to trash a guitar over one scratch, but they also do not want to market "seconds".


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:52 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 4:06 am
Posts: 29
Location: United States
First name: Karl
Last Name: Dahlman
City: Hampshire
State: IL
Zip/Postal Code: 60140
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
another search would be frank fords site. There are some tests described there that you can do to see if you are working with a laquer that can be "dissolved" or if you have to fill. I am no expert but one thing that you might be able to do is to fill it with superglue and use the micro scraper of a razor blade, ala frank ford, to get it close to level then work some sanding grits up and buff. Sounds easy but it ain't. many options and avenues for disaster. Check with the manufacturer, that will be a great start.

Karl


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